Solo Training in Yellowknife

Sunrise on Great Slave Lake: Early Morning Solo Training on my last day.

On the 14th December, our team each went their own ways from Yellowknife. I said my goodbyes, as I had planned to stay on to do some more cold climate acclimatisation, building on the lessons I had learnt in the team training.

On discussion with Richard about my strengths and weaknesses, we confirmed that my biggest vulnerability would be my "Cold Management". It was great to have his validation, that me spending time here in Yellowknife "was probably the best thing I could do to minimise this vulnerability". Gee, this is commitment to the expedition, spending Christmas all on my own in remote Yellowknife!

So, my plan was to try and spend up to 4 hours a day out on the ice towing a sled of the same weight as we had in training, but unlike the team training where i mostly used snow shoes, I would now exclusively use ski's.

I was dealing with the after affects of the frostnip, and the poorly managed, cold exposure. My nose, 4 fingers, and 3 toes all started their reactions, which involved blistering and peeling to reveal new unblemished skin. While not sore, it was a bit disconcerting as I thought that this had only been -40 deg C and only 4 days. However reading on the internet, made me feel better, realising that I 'just' had frostnip, which while not good, is not serious, and a speedy 100% recovery was normal. I guess, it turned out to be a valuable warning and learning lesson, a small blow to my confidence, and a big blow to my ego!

The days in Yellowknife involved me setting off from the B+B just before sunrise 9h30am!, 40 min walk to Ewan's house, where the sled was stored, and then within minutes I was on the lake and moving! With lots of directions to go, and parts of the lake to explore, I was never bored buy the same route, and generally found the 4 hrs went by pretty quickly. There is something about ski-ing on my own on the lake, with an endless horizon...It reminds me of the peace I get when I am in a desert on my own.... Often I never saw one person on the lake, and a few times I came across ice wolves, who added a degree of wildness and mystery. They would check me out from a distance, watching for a while, and then continuing to move in their aloof, yet predatory way, seemingly driven by hope, rather than purpose!

To increase the diversity, and in pursuit of a Northern Lights viewing, I changed my routine to include night treks, where i would leave at 9 30pm and be back by around 1 30am. Once again, there was some specialness, in being out on the ice on my own at night...resisting the natural reaction to switch on the headlamp, rather opting for my eyes adapting naturally to the limited light. I had two Norther Lights viewing experiences, the best one being when Ewan joined me as a treat and break from everyday routine for him. (That was special, thanks Ewan!)



My night path to Great Slave Lake: Oblivion or Gateway to the Northern Lights?

I focused a lot on my clothing layer management, and also purchase new 'Expedition mitts' which have helped hugely in my hand cold management. One doesn't always appreciate the finer aspects of some of this very technical clothing, but having suffered the consequences of poor cold management, I was now ready to learn about all the tweaks and adjustments possible. The mitts having three layers, and adjustable vents, enable me to now finely control my hand temperature environment

Interestingly, the temperature never really went below -28 in these days on my own, mostly around -20, and I genuinely felt too hot and cheated out of my REAL training. Anyway, overall it was great for my confidence, equipment 'bonding', mental preparation, and the overall fitness side.

One of the benefits of the late night training was that at 1 30am I finished all hyped up and 'not ready for bed', and the Gold Range Hotel pub was on the way home. (Yeah, a bit of a dive, and not everyone's cup of tea, but it does take people like me a bit closer to the heart of Yellowknife, and how it works!) Well this is a cultural experience, particularly at the time of the morning. There was a band playing anything from fairly recognisable rock and roll, through home grown favourites, to traditional Country and Western. There I was, walking in after a cold 4 hours out there on the lake, complete with my Arctic gear, including boots and backpack, and often frozen head gear. I'd listen to a few of the end of night favourite Bad requests, what the cultural dancing, nurse my two whiskies, and then sneak out just before closing, feeling very content and ready for bed!

And this is supposed to be monotonous training for the Arctic! Aaah well, really great for two or three weeks, but I now need to move on to a new (and warmer) environment....

The familiarity of Cape Town and my friends awaits....