tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47929713463502992012024-03-13T19:42:31.637+00:00Canada to the North PoleHoward Fairbank: Attempting to reach the North Pole, on foot from Canada. Maybe the 1st South African..?Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-26180926659886236432010-04-24T06:19:00.004+01:002010-04-26T06:31:39.134+01:00This is SOOO... special it deserves to go up on my Blog! From pupils in a class at a school in Brooks, Alberta, Canada; Here goes.....<br /><br />A Tribute to Howard <br /><br />If you are very adventursome this is actually written to be sung as a rap song...have fun with it!<br /><br />A Tribute to Howard <br /><br />There was a guy who had a crazy dream <br />To be cold and frozen with his four man team<br />They walked and skied through the northern extreme <br />They did it all under their own steam.<br /><br />They had a few mishaps along the way <br />The ice cracked apart and caused a delay<br />A polar bear print made for a nervous day <br />The drop from the airplane broke your sleigh.<br /><br />Food was plentiful but not always fresh <br />The pemmican was sour and not at its best.<br />The kerosene leak contaminated most of the rest <br />Thank goodness there was still something to digest<br /><br />April 14th arrived at long last <br />Unfortunately with a very cold blast<br />You have finally made it, the top of your class<br />An experience that may never be surpassed.<br />Yay, Team North PoleHoward Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-37864330578682369482010-04-16T18:50:00.010+01:002010-04-25T13:37:40.120+01:00From the North Pole...!Indinda and I at the end of the journey...The North Pole!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwala4NIZad017M6zNveQl9t8zs9hkcr3UPlTqgpnbyCAVYHvvHIC3iRHObU5a0F-g-81xgJZRr8Y8BtX9sWt9S_qbMNQxSWpg5fkGp6zwnxJVCVDvomG7TKDP5rXR7zhvb4_b0-rsDE/s1600/hf+and+indinda+at+the+pole.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461029491001658386" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwala4NIZad017M6zNveQl9t8zs9hkcr3UPlTqgpnbyCAVYHvvHIC3iRHObU5a0F-g-81xgJZRr8Y8BtX9sWt9S_qbMNQxSWpg5fkGp6zwnxJVCVDvomG7TKDP5rXR7zhvb4_b0-rsDE/s320/hf+and+indinda+at+the+pole.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><div>I know the news is out...We made it! 9h05 EST, 14 April 2010! (Sorry, PDA started playing up after my swim, and also a shortage of sleep, has delayed this communication, but hopefully not its significance!)<br /><br />Somehow, the PDA is working again, and I write this as I sit on the Russian jet that took off from the ice at the North Pole (Barneo station) to take us back to the real world of Longyerbyen, Svalbard. Gee, what an amazing birthday... Due to the bad weather the helicopter couldn't come out to pick us up yesterday, so we camped out at 'The Pole' and waited till 3pm for the pickup. (Drifting 8 miles from the Pole as we waited!) As the helicopter came into view, on a perfect arctic day, it was very emotional packing up the tent for the last time. Then for the most amazing surprise birthday present... Ruth stepped out of the big helicopter and I was just blown away...!! With me doing the expedition and her adventurous personality, she had decided to join a 6-10 day, 2 person 'Last degree' expedition and then meet me at The Pole. With our, much earlier than planned, arrival, I had accepted we would miss each other, and I would wait in Svalbard till around 22 April, when she finished, but here she was at the Pole on my birthday... The stuff dreams are made of...! I have to thank Victor, in charge of the Russian Barneo operation for his wonderful birthday present in 'bringing her to me'. Our time together was short but packed with emotions, as Ruth's expedition flew out to 89 degrees an hour after our helicopter touched down at Barneo'! I'll see her again in 7-10 days!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimadzeCewsY7cqchvOktMGjXHv7qCyIWgnuUJZLZpMXzNjyq8VBrp-Clv2CwPh55VIgryA65loqnRCutvUof1txZJVJWyH3IMxf9jNOBc4eSyZGCKnTpyO5cdeiuQ1LQE-LCux4cGIWn8/s1600/team+helicopter.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461029505721108994" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimadzeCewsY7cqchvOktMGjXHv7qCyIWgnuUJZLZpMXzNjyq8VBrp-Clv2CwPh55VIgryA65loqnRCutvUof1txZJVJWyH3IMxf9jNOBc4eSyZGCKnTpyO5cdeiuQ1LQE-LCux4cGIWn8/s320/team+helicopter.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The Team in front of the Russian helicopter that came to pick us up at The Pole...emotional stuff!<br /><br />Thank you ALL for the amazing support and birthday wishes, it's been truly overwhelming, and I'll deal with each personally over the next week.<br /><br />The last two days of the expedition were REAL difficult, and the last session of 9 miles was as per a classic Polar adventure / expedition drama... 45 knot blizzard, whiteout and 4 crazy 'explorers' barely visible fighting the conditions to reach the highly prized, 'nowhere'... nobody to meet you, no obvious landmark, no special compass, clock behaviour etc, 'Just' knowing it's the top of the world and whichever way you walk you go south! I thought I might even get dizzy, because for the 1st time in my 52 years and 364 days of life I was stationary and not spinning around the world! But, hey it felt just the same...! (Many times in the lead up to my decision to do this expedition I had thought through this, but now it was actual reality, and the thinking turned to the great explorers who were driven to 'find out' what was there. Having Richard right in front of me also made me think of the enormity of what him and Mikhail did... I couldn't imagine, turning around soon, and marching all the way back to Canada, and unsupported!<br /><br />Interestingly, in the last day when things were real tough, I started questioning why I was needing to get to this 'nowhere' and concluded I didn't 'anymore', I had experienced more than I could have ever imagined, on the 41 days, that the relevance of the journey made the specific end point fade into insignificance, other than its delivery of the relief of the unavoidable and necessary suffering involved. As we reached the end point, emotions hit break point and we each turned to each other one by one and shook hands, exchanged individually intimate 'one liners' of our own relevance and appreciation of the team effort to 'get us here'. The specialness of Richard leadership and the Tessum's, Father / Son achievement, was something special to witness... Tears flowed in a way that's hard to describe.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDKhbdlAjKjg-A5071wqWNw-Cy-VkrtxVd0Q8oaEuAaNEshO6RY1vmilGEfLiegZ5o7xxqf7d3Zp1pegcp8WnMf9lFQq4qTg5-HYLLG1VGRkdvx0KWxEHj_3Km9pDE-ZTV5a9OvalyBQ/s1600/hf+face+closeup+15+april.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461029501914271106" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDKhbdlAjKjg-A5071wqWNw-Cy-VkrtxVd0Q8oaEuAaNEshO6RY1vmilGEfLiegZ5o7xxqf7d3Zp1pegcp8WnMf9lFQq4qTg5-HYLLG1VGRkdvx0KWxEHj_3Km9pDE-ZTV5a9OvalyBQ/s320/hf+face+closeup+15+april.jpg" /></a><br /><br />One tired, but happy birthday boy! Inside our tent on 15th April 2010, waiting to be picked up by helicopter...Mission accomplished!<br /><br />Going back to the last two days:<br /><br />I know you know I had a REAL swim, as I asked Ruth to post something on the Blog, but because of it's significance on my last day's experience I'd like to share it with you...<br /><br />Firstly, the last day, wasn't really 'a day' it was a tough 36 hours of hullucination and dealing with excitement, disappointment, patience, suffering, physical discomfort, and an 'un-manageable' mind, then dealing with the reality and significant conflicts of the Pole, I talk about above...!<br /><br />My last Post was from the morning before these 36 hours and we had 19 miles to go... so from that point...:<br /><br />A peek out the tent revealed whiteout conditions and a westerly, but slightly stronger wind still blowing… hmm, a sombre atmosphere over breakfast as we all dealt with the harsh realities of the marches ahead. Well, within 2 hours we were presented with a lead that wasn't open water, but newly frozen, and marginal thin ice. (For us snowshoe-ers vs. skiers) Richard tested a crossing on ski's and suggested David and I take our snow shoes off and rather walk on 'just boots', to avoid the snow shoe stressing the thin ice. I was excited by this, and while the skiers changed layers, I pushed Richard to let David and I go ahead and cross. Hmmm, those of you that know me well, will say "typical"! So excitedly I left, leading David and cautiously testing the ice. About 90% across with absolutely no warning, a 'next step', broke the thin ice, and I went down with my backpack on, and sled attached, in the water up to my navel. Hmm... icy cold water, slowly penetrating my warm and absorbent fleece wear! As I tried to get out the ice edge broke more, creating a sizeable pool and the icy water penetrated further... eventually backtracking led me to thicker ice creating a strong ledge which helped me 'help myself' out. I felt disappointed with myself that I had abused Richard's trust in me, and now was for the 1st time on the expedition, at a critical 'record, or no record’ time too. At the same time, I had this 'Ulysses' factor' excitement that said I was truly experiencing the Arctic! From previous discussions with Richard I knew I must roll in snow, as deep as possible, as it soaks up the water, so I did this, and then when he reached me he assisted by forcing fresh snow into my boots to absorb the water...!<br /><br />Determined to minimize team delay, I urged the expedition on so I could start warming up, and hopefully avoid a total 'bottom half' freeze up. I could feel my boots were 'slushily’, warm, and twice the weight they were, and my polar fleece pants also weighed a lot more… all not good, and a bit scary... new territory! A stop to add another warm top proved critical. Over the next two hours marching after a difficult physical and mental struggle I knew I had gone to the brink of the frostbite line, but won!<br /><br />A half hour later, I removed the layer that had saved me and was back too feeling like a 'normal' march, team member. Hmm, until felt short of my normal speed capacity, and realized I was short on calories, as the swim and cold had drained me. Few chocolate bars, and I felt 100% to the point where I took some fuel load from the slowest team member's sled to try and optimize our overall speed. This went amazingly well, and the team was now at full potential towards the goal, The Pole! At breaks or when we stopped, I did realize my boots were a fragile balance between being 'slushily' warm, and a dangerous encased ice prison,... I needed to keep moving, but what would happen for the relatively inactive hour at the end of the marching day, when we build our home? Meantime, the wind had strengthened, and we were back in full 'whiteout', with increasing -ve ice drift, as we edge northwards. Fatigue and disillusionment with the fact that the 19 miles would take us a lot longer than 'we' had wished, we conclude that the Pole would not be possible without us having a rest. Rest means, setting up and taking down camp, and all that goes with that... A minimum of 5 hours, including only 2 for sleep, with 0.5 knot backward ice drift as we rest! This is part of the very intriguing game of an arctic expedition like ours, it's a continuous struggle to 'beat the arctic’, and that game has drawn Richard back, and I can see what a master at it, he is. So a decision was made to rest at '9 miles to go', for two hours sleep, and then set off for that 'final' set of marches! With this interim goal the team motivation was high, and the 'nine miles to go' milestone came up at about 18h30 (EST) on the 13th. The wind was up to at least 40 knots, and the arctic had this 'dry ice' look with the blown surface snow looking subliming carbon dioxide, in the now dull sunlight.<br /><br />As predicted, tent building provided a challenge to my soaked boots, and on entering the tent and removing my boots / socks, my frozen frost bitten toes were discovered! I was severely disappointed with myself, that I had largely managed the cold up to the last day, and now a silly mistake had delivered this blow. This news and the wet condition of all my gear changed the focus of the rest stop, to one where it was almost all about getting me back into condition to be able to complete the last 9 miles (plus drift as we camped). My team mates were amazing, David 'lending' me his warm armpits to thaw my frost bitten toes (the right foot big toe was the worst) As thawing started and blood circulation returned, the pain was horrendous, but no time for crying now! Richard helped pull my boots apart, so they could be dried above the stoves. This was a huge job as the 3 layers were completely frozen as one. Those that know me well will know I find it difficult to accept help, and this 'injured, needy, patient' position I was in was something I hate! The amazing friendship and unselfish help I received from my team mates was a humbling experience, and a huge human relationship, 'teaching moment' for me. Given his leadership role and draining whiteout, navigation activity on the marches Richard was particularly tired and needing off a nap, but instead helped me. Eventually my 3 team mates did manage a catnap, as I continued to de-ice and dry my gear.<br /><br />At around 21h30 (EST) we were all packed up and back marching for our final assault on The Pole. Well the next 12 hours are close to..., if not THE hardest 12 hours I have EVER had to manage in my life! Weather conditions were shocking, the worst to date, true blizzard, and south drift peaked at 0.5 knots, discounting our forward efforts, my frostbitten toes were paining, and for some strange reason relating to their icing up, my trusted boots now created huge heal blisters from a new chafe. At one of the march breaks I even stripped down to bare feet to add vaseline at -40 deg C... hmm, not fun! Eventually, I succumbed to painkillers, the 1st time on the trip for me! Through all this, I have to admire Richard's leadership and navigation ability, as mile by painful mile we reeled in the Pole.<br /><br />Almost 12 hours of marching brought The Pole, and the end of a TRULY amazing journey. The rest is history, but in the next week or so, I'll probably put out one last 'Reflections' Post!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Cx2UP-t1USAGIA6HLtf4yLyoFHCB_wewuGOxjrJ5e8Wjl452i4scgQ3uFinWUY1ZQcLiQaMatxwBpS0aJ77Oa_PM431QYARBX9_JmMnYh8AijQYg5kjNZkunyetI6KKBwX1iR8SIHnI/s1600/hf+leaving+for+jet.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Cx2UP-t1USAGIA6HLtf4yLyoFHCB_wewuGOxjrJ5e8Wjl452i4scgQ3uFinWUY1ZQcLiQaMatxwBpS0aJ77Oa_PM431QYARBX9_JmMnYh8AijQYg5kjNZkunyetI6KKBwX1iR8SIHnI/s320/hf+leaving+for+jet.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461182579521631346" /></a><br /><br />Saying goodbye to The Pole, the Arctic and Barneo...about to climb into the Russian jet and leave the ice for Longyearbyen, Svalbard. <br /><br />I am confident that I will have a full recovery from the frosbite, but a visit to the doctor in Svalbard will hopefully confirm that! At the moment it's very swollen and painful, but at least not black!<br /><br />Now for indulging in the normal comforts and re-entering 'normal life'...<br /><br />Thanks again, for all your support, I enjoyed having you along!</div></div></div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAKj268cmFvZKrQQO1RPPAkBhusu-Z07lb9SHH0njSlrQsKl3tkqeD80V3HBh43UZeGQBMle36d-nvQbr_fbI2IhRC7rJ3zpB86RePL_4lpKYZjd4KBuTh-QFGKS-HVTQD0HM6IKV2BPU/s1600/hf+with+sa+flag.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAKj268cmFvZKrQQO1RPPAkBhusu-Z07lb9SHH0njSlrQsKl3tkqeD80V3HBh43UZeGQBMle36d-nvQbr_fbI2IhRC7rJ3zpB86RePL_4lpKYZjd4KBuTh-QFGKS-HVTQD0HM6IKV2BPU/s320/hf+with+sa+flag.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461182574251285890" /></a><br /><br />The South African flag at the Pole (Thanks Martin and Jean)Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-28303926274144850702010-04-14T17:12:00.002+01:002010-04-14T17:53:28.713+01:00Position: 90 Degrees North!Howard arrived at the North Pole at approximately 1500 GMT today, 14 April 2010! Probably the first South African and the oldest ever (at 52 years, 364 days) on this route.<br /><br />The journey over the last 24 hours has not been easy, and perhaps the MOST challenging. In the last 24 hours Howard fell, fully clothed and without drysuit, through the thin ice and was more or less fully submerged. With some difficulty extracting himself over the thin ice, he got out, rolled in the snow to dry himself as much as possible, put on all his spare clothes and got moving to warm himself. He eventually got comfortable, but when they stopped to put up the tent, the very strong wind chilled him and has created frostbite damage on his toes. This was the condition he was in when after 2 hours sleep they set off for their final 10nm to bag the North Pole. As I talked to him when he called with the good news, he drifted off to sleep!<br /><br />The team is now awaiting evacuation by helicopter to Barneo, the Russian ice base at around 89 Degrees North, expected in the morning (GMT time) where they will board an Antonov-74 for the 2.5 hour flight to Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen, Norway. There, Howard will have his frostbite seen to and begin the recovery process. <br /><br />Happy Birthday Howard! I know all bloggers will join me in sending love, congratulations, fast recovery and thanks for sharing and taking us with you on yet another amazing and special journey.<br /><br />RUTH<br /><br />ps Howard will be updating the blog in his own words as soon as he's able, so stand by!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-67293381806395936832010-04-14T08:00:00.000+01:002010-04-14T08:01:10.907+01:00Still struggling to the pole in very challenging conditionsA report from Howard this morning, they are 89.5 N 48 E and drift and bad stormy conditions are challenging their final steps to the pole. Howard reports some frostbite on his feet and is hoping for a quick evacuation on arrival to the pole.<br /><br />Strong winds may delay this.<br /><br />Stay tuned for further updates!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-16634137022499663302010-04-14T07:58:00.000+01:002010-04-14T07:59:22.083+01:0020 Miles to go. What a day!When I wrote my last Post, I didn't think it could get more difficult, but today was VERY challenging. It's now 1am 13th April as I write this: We are just having a well deserved dinner and relaxation after a tough 14 marching day, which wasn't as productive as we would have liked… only 12 miles north achieved, but a lot of work done!<br />The lead we had to cross 1st thing this morning turned out to almost be the easiest thing of the day! The Arctic decided to help and did it's work for us overnight....In 8 hours a 200 metre wide and 'endless east / west extent 100% open water lead froze over, and then wind forced the two sides together just near our tent, creating a nature made bridge for us of smashed up ice blocks. So all our planning on how we would wake up and swim the 200m was not needed, and we were back in the hunt for the record. The wind continued to blow west / south west at 20 - 30 knots the whole day...not fun! Within 2 hours of starting we hit another wider open water lead....hmmm, now I know why I can't see that pole at The Pole I mentioned in yesterday's Post, it's a buoy too low in tye water! Gee, we saw lo6s of cracks and water today!<span style=""> </span>We had to don drysuits once for an 80 metre real swim.<span style=""> </span>Fortunately my sled has no cracks and is the only one still watertight and usable for water crossings. We shuttled all the stuff with the one, which took time and we all got really cold in the process, but at least made the only 'escape' crossing.'<br /><br />An hour later produced another big lead, which forced a large detour and another 'swim'.....well we used the now named 'H' bridge....after me, as I designed it the day before. Basically we used the insulating mattresses laid out on very thin ice, and we 'leopard crawl' across the mattresses which spread our weight. This saved using the dreaded drysuits, which take lots of time. Needless to say the designer had to bee the first to cross, in case it didn't work! All went safely, but it was like crawling on a dry liquid screen!<br /><br />Rest of the day was whiteout and wind until the last hour when a midnight sun appeared....directly ahead 30 degrees up from the horizon and directly north.<br /><br />Gee, I am exhausted....'<br /><br />Pole by Wednesday, and probably no Record, but we get up in 3 hours and march 'till we drop'....Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-33847415703888925972010-04-12T19:12:00.001+01:002010-04-12T19:16:00.519+01:0030 Miles to go, but the Arctic still challenges and teases us...It's 8am EST, on Day 41, and we are at 89 29.1N and 75 0.0W, the closest I have ever been to The Pole. In fact if there was a 'pole; at The Pole I would be almost bee able to see it from here!<br /><br />Yesterday we had a huge 14 hour march day (including breaks), and made 17 miles north mileage. It was a miserable, tough day, with poor visibility, a bitterly cold, 25-30 knot, SW wind, two difficult to cross thin ice, leads, and one requiring drysuits. Tessum as the 'guinea pig' once again fell through the thin ice on skis. I cautiously leopard crawled across the short 60 metres in my drysuit, without breaking the ice. It was bitterly cold with the wind chill, and one of the guys had serious face frostbite, which miraculously didn't turn out into more serious facial damage. I struggled with the cold and recovering body heat after the march breaks. Finally with me leading the last 90 min march, which was supposed to end at midnight, at 23h30 I was presented with a wide, total open water lead crossing our path to the Pole. A serious obstacle, with no apparent solution other than a 200m swim ahead. <br /><br />Got to bed at 3 am, up 7am, and now having breakfast, before setting out to deal with the lead crossing, which could dash our record hopes!<br /><br />I am feeling ABSOLUTELY exhausted, and leading the march last night took all I had in me, and I had to dig REAL deep! A sleep and breakfast restores a lot, but we all just want it to end now! This is the difficult mind management time, I have been here before, but it's not nice or easy....I guess nothing of value comes easy!<br /><br />Today we will do another 14 hours, and at the end of the day (24 hours daylight!) we should be in the 'teens' of miles to go!<br /><br />Let’s see what the Arctic allows us to do today....Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-15764116825254935402010-04-12T19:04:00.002+01:002010-04-12T19:12:29.478+01:00Day 39Sunday morning 8 am EST, and we are just 49 miles to the Pole!<br /><br />We only just 'escaped' from our floating island of two days ago, with Tessum having a Dry suit swim after falling through thin ice with his ski's on! I managed to 'leopard crawl' in my drysuit the 25 metres of slush! In the process my drysuit leaked sea water onto my camera which is now not working.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3vJiSXmw2c8dUvZXMIAUmvNaGuYd4RQM1I-Mrm5iKKEvLYB5YYCBXU96MCqjQ8PkfhHxi9VocdSYZk_ewb5BiGnzr4PRWQmvnWtvplnzk1b4b5lc2jx4gaX2JR6vAvf-pdP0VSKKgjY/s1600/IMG_1781.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3vJiSXmw2c8dUvZXMIAUmvNaGuYd4RQM1I-Mrm5iKKEvLYB5YYCBXU96MCqjQ8PkfhHxi9VocdSYZk_ewb5BiGnzr4PRWQmvnWtvplnzk1b4b5lc2jx4gaX2JR6vAvf-pdP0VSKKgjY/s320/IMG_1781.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5459315151605473506" border="0" /></a> Tessum taking the last step escaping from out floating island... Now called Tessum's island... He found the escape route and then swam to the next island he is stepping onto!!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-51780895653662673152010-04-09T16:05:00.004+01:002010-04-09T17:08:57.157+01:00Day 38: The Arctic shows us it's Wild Side, and challenges us...Expedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 38: End of Day Position: 88 41.6 N, 89 18.0 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 343.6 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Distance covered since last Post: 50.7 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Distance to The Pole: 78.4 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Overall distance versus plan: +2.0 days (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 16 April, + / - 2 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 10.0 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -25 / -10 deg C<br /><br />Notes: <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span> = Nautical miles (1 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span> = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />I am so relieved that the last 5 days are behind me, but also so glad I experienced them... The Arctic has become wild since the last Post: Weather wild, ice wild, and terrain challenging. I guess we should have guessed that would happen after getting a bit too comfortable and maybe even complacent.<br /><br />This Post will have mixed tenses, and order of days... sorry! As I have written it over a few days, and the current situation (described below is consuming us).<br /><br />Night of Day 37: I sit here in our tent on a small floating ice floe (probably 800 metres at its longest point). Beautiful sea views, and lovely sunset! We are sort of marooned here, as we thought it was a bridge across a huge piece of open ocean but it's turned out to be a peninsula going nowhere! As our GPS says we are drifting at 0.5 knots, and just before coming into the tent we hit a smaller island floe, and it's now connected to us! With our drift the peninsula has probably now disconnected at the small ice bridge we used to get onto it, so we are truly a small floating ice island. It was the end of a long day and we had no option but to camp here. The good thing is we are drifting north and if this continues through the night we should cross the open ocean we desperately were wanting to go to, but probably by colliding with the other side ice tomorrow! It's pretty exciting, a bit scary too... I must say I was amazed today at the extent of the open water. It has looked like real open ocean with sea to the horizon in places. For the first time I truly 'believed' I am on a 'water ocean', rather than just 'land of ice', with a bit of water. Today felt that the ice was secondary to the ocean water...<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">hmmm</span>, scary stuff. Richard is also amazed and shared with us that in 7 trips to the Pole he has never seen open water like this for this time of the year and this far North. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmmm</span>, things REALLY are 'a changing' in the world, hey!<br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcOAlnV8Ki8fJIODbqFQvXyub8jxg1bZifFJnP1m10E8Q4FVut7WzGkWLDeEQ7rxbvACVzgfoka6Eh01aDxFykhyphenhyphen8t_NnO9B3Gzb6EHNFd2xJTbWr6c8z_ul1dY-tgvkbO9_YIRQcVeRY/s1600/sunset+from+island.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458154536248225634" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcOAlnV8Ki8fJIODbqFQvXyub8jxg1bZifFJnP1m10E8Q4FVut7WzGkWLDeEQ7rxbvACVzgfoka6Eh01aDxFykhyphenhyphen8t_NnO9B3Gzb6EHNFd2xJTbWr6c8z_ul1dY-tgvkbO9_YIRQcVeRY/s320/sunset+from+island.JPG" /></a> Sunset from our marooned island.<br /><br />Today was probably the most interesting day of the expedition. It started with whiteout conditions and snowing, and us having to cross a maze of cracks, some of which were disguised with covered snow! Within the hour I had put my boot in hidden slush, and two sleds got dumped. Visibility improved, then we hit a huge east / west lead that took 3 hours to navigate around, with some tricky ice and crossings (beautiful scenery though). Just after 'conquering' that one, huge dark low level strata cloud almost reaching to sea level pointed to probably massive open water...and that's where we are now! Trying to get around this water was really challenging, but took us through the best Arctic scenery yet. It's clear there has been very recent huge ice destruction, and with the strong Easterly wind, there was lots of grinding and gnashing, all set behind a stage of REAL ocean, waves and all. I was fortunate to lead the last hour march which ended up being 3 hours, with a section where we walked metres from the ocean along the ice 'floe' edge with a beautiful golden sunset on the water. I guess one may conclude I led us to our current dilemma... <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">haha</span>, it was in consultation with Richard, and the whole team agreed at the time there was no dead end! It's all part of the navigation game that I can see draws Richard back! The South Pole does not offer this. We managed 9 miles today.<br /><br />With less than 80 miles to go, after today, it's still not certain we will even get there! I guess we don't really believe that, but it would seem that in years to come, the open ocean water barrier will prevent people doing what we are doing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFWTd-Gl_JEDwjrvE1cEGr16zUuShjN2LEYrQ7TBxrSUkHzQlDO-9qgKjDZe8KqhcrZTZyItj3PhWteOm1craa50vfRSNS37JwMa0cHOkuvEBQxhJxy-m5BsI8v61Vh-fPxwqhwEJ6qg/s1600/black+ice+and+water+clear+line.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458154515126642034" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFWTd-Gl_JEDwjrvE1cEGr16zUuShjN2LEYrQ7TBxrSUkHzQlDO-9qgKjDZe8KqhcrZTZyItj3PhWteOm1craa50vfRSNS37JwMa0cHOkuvEBQxhJxy-m5BsI8v61Vh-fPxwqhwEJ6qg/s320/black+ice+and+water+clear+line.JPG" /></a> I found this amazing: Open water showing the process of freezing, showing the clear line between newly frozen water, and open water.<br /><br />It's Day 35, I have been living on the ice for 5 weeks now, and the Arctic has decided to show me a dimension I hadn't experienced yet... A moderate blizzard! Since 8pm yesterday it's been blowing 25 - 35 knots, with pretty heavy snow, and virtually white conditions. As the wind slowly strengthened we took the precaution of building a snow block wall around the windward side. Using a snow saw, we cut blocks of hard snow, placed them on a cleared foundation, and then plastered the gaps with soft snow. I can see I have a few more hours training to go before I can get awarded qualify for my Arctic Igloo builder diploma! After a blustery night in the tent, we awoke to absolutely miserable conditions, a new bit of open water a short distance off, and a unanimous vote of 'yes' to a rest day was accepted! Gee, how nice it's been sleeping in till midday, and just generally consolidating. We are all REALLY tired and this rest day will pay off nicely in the days ahead. </p><p><br />I am writing this inside the shaking and rattling tent, 30 knots outside, we are drifting west at 0.4 miles / hour, and have just gone outside to check out our barricade wall, and fill a few gaps. The barometer has dropped 20 bars in 20 hours, and is at a new low, so probably worse to come. It’s pretty warm though, and we have all committed to ‘marching tomorrow, no matter what'... I went to bed wondering what would happen if the tent got ripped up in the wind... After a few minutes of thinking, I had a plan, so fell asleep!<br /><br />Surprise, surprise, after a restful 'blizzard day' off, and early to bed we woke on Day 36 an hour earlier at 5am, to a clear windless day... A good day to start marching again, but it didn't last long. It was soon dark blue / gray sky, westerly wind, snow, then our favourite northerly headwind. There was lots of fractured ice around, obviously from the strong winds of the day before. It was truly amazing seeing all this destruction and watching huge ice floes moving fast relative to each other. Lots of open water but until the last two hours of our marching it fortunately didn't affect us. We covered an amazing 16.4 miles to the Pole. I led the last 2 hours in initially whiteout conditions then literally a maze of open water fissures, with better visibility. I was dead tired at the end of the 11.3 hour day. The Pole is now only 87 miles away.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6aB4W6Agx0ZdaIciv30lFLEXhLNHS3p5uqSHYE-7lFB1mTxcR4duUVvoT_64_XV3S8w8gQRS0N_gKd2cp08fDI841gLK6t4dGhHaQdaS-6j62hMu190nVTO7tCL7ajcuTaEUDK6kjx8/s1600/the+only+peerson+we+have+met.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458154536442067378" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6aB4W6Agx0ZdaIciv30lFLEXhLNHS3p5uqSHYE-7lFB1mTxcR4duUVvoT_64_XV3S8w8gQRS0N_gKd2cp08fDI841gLK6t4dGhHaQdaS-6j62hMu190nVTO7tCL7ajcuTaEUDK6kjx8/s320/the+only+peerson+we+have+met.JPG" /></a> The only person we have met along the way! 'He' showed us the road to the Highway to the Pole!<br />On Day 33, we woke as expected to the news that we had drifted south 2 miles, the north wind was still blowing and it was 'whiteout' outside... <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">hmmm</span>, one has to dig deep knowing we were going out for 10 hours in this. Somehow I still started the day full of hope and excitement! Within hours it changed to a beautiful dark blue grey sky, with contrasting pure white snow ocean, and then the sun came out, there was no wind basically perfect weather. At the break before our last march that day we sat on our packs almost sunbathing, and sharing how "lucky we are"! We are always trying to dry gear out, and now it was so warm (relatively now!) with strongish direct sunlight I removed my iced up face mask and attached it sun-facing to my sled, so it could start thawing out before I got to camp!<br /><br />A challenge for that same day was coming across this huge almost black ice lead... probably 500 meters wide and running NE / SW, almost directly across our path. Coming across it was like just arriving at an undiscovered sea. No chance of skiing across it and too far to swim... 2 hours of north easterly walking produced the hoped for ice bridge... phew, saved again, and with a 12.4 mile day (North component distance) we thought we had been forgiven for premature thinking about records, and 'only 9 days left’, and the arctic was back on our on our side!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriLKMlB9QJDiWdIHf4jruAm8oTO0zxp7IMPwEjrJefI56fnJro4WbmO2_CJdkD3o7_Z9je4ZL9LdutXfXog-hjw9y677JSUh_92NpurrlcpO9dSL5u-zt6bsr49Wiz6fljcVTS2o_UBc/s1600/big+lead+ice+floe.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458154508293788018" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriLKMlB9QJDiWdIHf4jruAm8oTO0zxp7IMPwEjrJefI56fnJro4WbmO2_CJdkD3o7_Z9je4ZL9LdutXfXog-hjw9y677JSUh_92NpurrlcpO9dSL5u-zt6bsr49Wiz6fljcVTS2o_UBc/s320/big+lead+ice+floe.JPG" /></a> Part of the Black Ice, big lead of Day 33. Pretty cool with the 'Iceberg' caught in it.<br /><br />Well, Day 34 proved that the Arctic was playing with us... shocker, the worst to date! Whiteout conditions, the largest black ice and open water lead we have seen, 1 km across in places, running almost east west and no sign of any 'bridges' where we can cross. In desperation Richard climbed a 'little mountain view point looking for the crossing point "that always exists"! Nothing...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLf34qGcefC252FsmF3qQHFRY6gmBME3_cuBSkKMG0jPbGtZX7wZ9yXpdAXNHwCJtxymEYCvjjo6oBIQUf-fOTTMXwf4pz3E4ia6nxcJlwbm57U3k-zvUhiIICwb0WZ-JlcEuZ4_yj2A/s1600/ricchard+perched.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458154524074942274" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLf34qGcefC252FsmF3qQHFRY6gmBME3_cuBSkKMG0jPbGtZX7wZ9yXpdAXNHwCJtxymEYCvjjo6oBIQUf-fOTTMXwf4pz3E4ia6nxcJlwbm57U3k-zvUhiIICwb0WZ-JlcEuZ4_yj2A/s320/ricchard+perched.JPG" /></a> Richard up the highest point telling us the bad news that he <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">can't see</span> the end of the open water and the big walk east in hope of finding <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-error">a 'bridge</span>' is about to begin!<br /><br />With no options other than whether we walk east or west, the mood was somber, as we set off east. Well, the weather deteriorated to snow and whiteout, and to share the load I led for 90 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">mins</span>... ooh, challenging stuff, stumbling over little humps and sliding down slippery snow caked I couldn't see, I felt like I was a blind person leading the slightly less blind! Anyway, after 6 hours of virtually easterly progress we found what looked like a patch of greyer ice going north / south across the lead, and an apparent break in the open water. Richard went out to test it, and an excited shout back to us to put on ski's to cross was just the news we needed. The ice crossing was quite good, but needed urgency as the crack was in the process of opening again as we crossed. Although we probably walked 16 miles, we were thankful that we could claim 10 miles north progress.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f17Fs8fnHtt4NMA_khmbwikfIyo3-kqqOeWdlu6BrTzrWrHppFmWivM9VUuBLXJMtD5MFl0F-WY9zDrM0WVuASQ9rOhyroc0GQyW3dDWccW7zxFg7AW8sQHabWWiIcqtf3GmstsY8l0/s1600/the+path+through+a+pressure+ridge.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458154633738514914" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f17Fs8fnHtt4NMA_khmbwikfIyo3-kqqOeWdlu6BrTzrWrHppFmWivM9VUuBLXJMtD5MFl0F-WY9zDrM0WVuASQ9rOhyroc0GQyW3dDWccW7zxFg7AW8sQHabWWiIcqtf3GmstsY8l0/s320/the+path+through+a+pressure+ridge.JPG" /></a> Happiness... the trail of our sleds leaving the crossing point of the big, bad, 6 hour delaying lead! Sorry no picture of the actual crossing point as it was pretty hairy and no time for stopping for photos!<br /><br />I must say as the Pole gets 'close' and fatigue sets in, I am finding it more difficult to not focus on the luxury of relaxing in Barneo, and 'normal' comforts. This is the difficult phase of a long endurance trip... managing the mind, when it wants to 'escape' to paradise, and leave the body behind! The two have to work closely together over the next tough 5-7 days to 'the end'.<br /><br />Continuing the 'day in my life out here'.<br /><br />Breakfast now done, pack up time. Firstly all the 'washing' to be taken off the drying line. Then stoves off and the chill down begins. All gear is moved out of the tent and I am left in a cold empty tent to fill the 3 stove fuel bottles from the sled fuel cans... <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12" class="blsp-spelling-error">hmm</span>, a delicate job! Once that's done I join the guys outside doing personal stuff, basically packing backpacks and sleds. Last job is pulling the tent down, and then manually breaking off ice crusts on the lower tent walls, a pain of a job that takes 20 minutes. I'm the quality controller here, as I carry the tent in my sled, and ice is excess weight! Finally, we are all packed up skis / snowshoes on and the march begins... (Now around 9am EST)<br /><br />I must 'run' now....we have a busy and probably 'big swim' day ahead.</p>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-11298527603542693012010-04-06T15:00:00.008+01:002010-04-06T18:21:11.903+01:00Day 35: An Unexpected Rest Day and Real North Pole ConditionsPosition: 88 11 N (over the 88th!)<br /><br />Howard has checked in today with news of an unexpected rest day. Yesterday they encountered strong winds, snow and white-out conditions. Having to navigate around a large lead took them East and although they walked ca 16 miles, they only covered 10 miles in the right direction. The going was rough - deep snow, ridges, low/no visibility meant many spills and frustration with the sled getting stuck. Howard led the way for some of the day and identified the passage across the big lead (hurrah!).<br /><br />The challenge of the extreme North Pole conditions continues today as the team is forced to spend the day in their tent and sleeping bags (conserving fuel, so no stoves on). They've built an ice wall around the tent in order that it withstands the strong winds. <br /><br />Howard reports ... it's "&*%$ing" difficult (school kids look away!). So, knowing Howard, to report that, it MUST be DIFFICULT! He's also tired and eating 8,500 calories a day and still losing weight.<br /><br />I'll keep you posted, and I'll continue to pass your comments to Howard, so keep 'em coming! Thanks all, RUTHHoward Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-66898588794953685942010-04-04T17:37:00.007+01:002010-04-06T15:01:28.450+01:00Day 32: Blistering pace, Full moon behind us, thoughts of a record spur us on...Expedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 32: End of Day Position: 87 50.9 N, 85 45.0 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 292.9 nm<br />Distance covered since last Post: 80.2 nm<br />Distance to The Pole: 129.1 nm<br />Overall distance versus plan: +2.5 days (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 16 April, + / - 2 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 10.0 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -35 / -20 deg C<br /><br />Notes: nm = Nautical miles (1 nm = 1.8 kilometers)<br /> Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />Firstly apologies for the late last Post; I had satphone ISP problems sending the content... oh for 'home broadband' hey!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqMn_IK8wUUAQpCUMIOC9MS-6to6wEE_Wok1_qKa_10erSch6pHF9nmZL2pDeZWGBIX_p9vJx6FfPQ28O24smnq2Km-CoLnpNeO0EVf4YzbkrJJgyWhF5z6RDJXSnGvUaW4tZelyDs5I/s1600/looking+better.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqMn_IK8wUUAQpCUMIOC9MS-6to6wEE_Wok1_qKa_10erSch6pHF9nmZL2pDeZWGBIX_p9vJx6FfPQ28O24smnq2Km-CoLnpNeO0EVf4YzbkrJJgyWhF5z6RDJXSnGvUaW4tZelyDs5I/s320/looking+better.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456323280463081042" border="0" /></a> Me looking 'better'... I think! Finger is almost healed too.<br /><br />As you see from the progress stats above we are even surprising ourselves with our pace since my last Post... 1 more day and we will be in the 88 latitude numbers! The pace on the marches is relentless, and almost each day brings a new record. Yesterday we managed 14.4 miles. At that pace it's just over four days per degree! Today (Day 32), we had a bit more sobering news, as we only did 12.4 miles, and the dreaded 'wind on the nose' has kicked in… northerly and yes, it's started pushing the ice south. After days of virtually no drift, we are now drifting south at 0.2 knots as I type this.<br /><br />So by the time we start marching tomorrow we could be 2 miles further from the Pole than we are now! We are acutely aware that the weather and drift has largely been on our side, and a few days of blizzard stuff could set us back a lot! (Mentally and progress wise). The big risk of bad ice conditions and open water associated with the perigee full moon tides is now behind us. It appears that the strongish easterly cross wind we had for 4 days over that time locked up the ice and made conditions largely favourable. All of this has made the possibility of us breaking the 49 day, fastest ever, Canada to North Pole expedition. We have now taken on this challenge seriously, and have implemented many strategies to help us go faster. Weight of the sleds is one of the keys, and we have dumped some food, and all excess clothing. One sleeping bag has been dumped, and we decided rather than dump all excess food we have increase daily rations so we can push harder on the marches. We have dumped some food, more soon, and then even some fuel will go.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPo0gu9ds-nG-UG_arfcc4jq3fsfAuV9MRZ88nJT33q0SZSHqapeOxz-323QzXrG7D-rYwV4BZ14qt7kYmOKxvaghBUjuUXsk3uFP63BE8pRUNSFxwydWGoIwh8mwtfZzfw9lDGVxdvM/s1600/indinda+alive+and+well.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPo0gu9ds-nG-UG_arfcc4jq3fsfAuV9MRZ88nJT33q0SZSHqapeOxz-323QzXrG7D-rYwV4BZ14qt7kYmOKxvaghBUjuUXsk3uFP63BE8pRUNSFxwydWGoIwh8mwtfZzfw9lDGVxdvM/s320/indinda+alive+and+well.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456323278303434930" border="0" /></a> Indinda alive and well, transforming into an Arctic Giraffe!<br /><br />I am currently consuming around 8500 kcal per day... gee that's a huge amount of what we would normally call 'bad food'... lots and lots of fat! I have even taught myself to think butter is chocolate, so happily bite off half a block of -30 deg C butter with a mouthful of delicious fruit cake… yummy, and I mean it! In two days time we plan to increase march times by one hour a day until we get to 12 hours a day, then stay at that for our 'record achieving' Push to the Pole! These extra calories will come in handy for that...<br /><br />As things are unfolding our expedition could be very 'historic', with Tessum being the youngest ever to do this, Richard and Tessum being the first father and son team to do it, and Richard vowing that this is his last! (I have been also told I will be the oldest ever to do it... hmmm, not sure I like that... I still think I'm a teenager!).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0W1-GfIkAthSS9XxVlJIR4Y75POTaXLm9KYdfulVjIkie4nhgMi9CjoP8_DFBrP4ZGSHTNcqqGC3XSJWDIKDT25drqbzxnAm0QNXwP_hFoDcIafv4VPDkRke_GGey8sD65DFfMAgEf8/s1600/r+and+t+power+napping.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0W1-GfIkAthSS9XxVlJIR4Y75POTaXLm9KYdfulVjIkie4nhgMi9CjoP8_DFBrP4ZGSHTNcqqGC3XSJWDIKDT25drqbzxnAm0QNXwP_hFoDcIafv4VPDkRke_GGey8sD65DFfMAgEf8/s320/r+and+t+power+napping.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456323289173453234" border="0" /></a> Richard and Tessum power napping during a 10 minute break. Amazing, a technique I still have to learn!<br /><br />I just love this 'race / go as fast as we can' mindset, I wanted that from the beginning and now have it; it just makes the whole thing that much more challenging and exciting. It has caused some stress in the team, with not all individual goals aligned, but after a little hiccup Richard's leadership has all members totally committed to the goal.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnzQNjYCYZHzgPkqFYGrAygqyq3zP_WVblPshrelNObKS6DSQyX6zmfx7GxZxDc9fSW8AeodIdtiMAMwN2bitmJKpVOnDEPe8UXG4L8tunpg68aCsgGiEfiwrRb_9UqwE5jCBUpAPHZ5Q/s1600/challenging+lead+crossing+.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnzQNjYCYZHzgPkqFYGrAygqyq3zP_WVblPshrelNObKS6DSQyX6zmfx7GxZxDc9fSW8AeodIdtiMAMwN2bitmJKpVOnDEPe8UXG4L8tunpg68aCsgGiEfiwrRb_9UqwE5jCBUpAPHZ5Q/s320/challenging+lead+crossing+.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456323502406282034" border="0" /></a> A particularly challenging lead crossing. The ice island had a large ice ridge that made it difficult to get the sled past. All got through safely!<br /><br />Some highlights from the past few days:<br /><br />I came VERY close to taking a total swim! Richard on skis tested the ice across a frozen lead, and we all agreed it was good. He skied across with his sled, and after he was on real terra firma, I then set off tentatively in my snow shoes (less area than skis and a crampon underneath. About 3/4 the way across, my step suddenly felt insecure and on slushy ice, so I treaded more carefully, continuing forward and lifting my foot to see the ice had opened a hole the size of my snowshoe. I literally left water holes behind each of the two steps to terra firma, but my sled got dumped. Here is a photo of the spot with the hole and open water, 2 minutes after I had got to the side! Close call to full swim! We have discussed the procedure for anyone of us taking a full swim, and it's not pleasant and will require a one day delay as we have to set up tent and run the stoves for 6-8 hours to dry all the wet (then frozen) gear.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTnKKVoWmpKB0ln2FLIPwI3T5WcoLjmn6H1zcBUkNeiNcZrcWWMf-NH3GgXGvZocin6N5AdkhIANxqh7TYMTZLWtrYq3qXj_9PbUadlvamkkB5fdkDGW4nWjjjC5y3JI-6aCv9v3Iego/s1600/snowshoe+waterhole.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTnKKVoWmpKB0ln2FLIPwI3T5WcoLjmn6H1zcBUkNeiNcZrcWWMf-NH3GgXGvZocin6N5AdkhIANxqh7TYMTZLWtrYq3qXj_9PbUadlvamkkB5fdkDGW4nWjjjC5y3JI-6aCv9v3Iego/s320/snowshoe+waterhole.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456323298196845666" border="0" /></a> Here is the lead crossing where I almost swam. That pool of water was made by my snowshoe! Tessum and David waiting to cross, now via another route.<br /><br />Day 29 saw us spending most of the day on a huge flat ice pan. It stretched to all horizons and reminded me of when the 'real sea' is becalmed and essentially flat and glimmering for as far as one could see. Unlike the 'real sea' which can change as the wind comes up, this is 'frozen calm', only waiting foot underwater disturbance to fracture the ice and disturb the peace. Although to many walking in this 'nothingness' would see boring the feeling of flat vastness was very special for me… for one day at least… The fact that this terrain allowed us to travel fast also added to the positive day.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmcWApHGrt6l2nyVhOKyWBZqx_tZYF6r2vAb01vPQzofktvbZE8Z-rmfDbACalkp_okqACujiSe5EkzGZu_TXdJly8SW1Y8YlbMuKsk_Eh7EczPBtQ6bz6-r-498DpbcJ3IABdFa0r9fQ/s1600/aquamarine+water.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmcWApHGrt6l2nyVhOKyWBZqx_tZYF6r2vAb01vPQzofktvbZE8Z-rmfDbACalkp_okqACujiSe5EkzGZu_TXdJly8SW1Y8YlbMuKsk_Eh7EczPBtQ6bz6-r-498DpbcJ3IABdFa0r9fQ/s320/aquamarine+water.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456323502316459202" border="0" /></a> A lovely arctic aquamarine sea!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-58911480825609418002010-04-01T15:37:00.007+01:002010-04-04T17:26:15.154+01:00Day 27: Pemmican OK, into the 86th Degree, The days are long and hard....Expedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 27: End of Day Position: 86 30.1 N, 82 53.6 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 212 nm<br />Distance covered since last Post: 40.7 nm<br />Distance to The Pole: 210 nm<br />Overall distance versus plan: +1.3 days (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 21 April, + / - 2 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 10.0 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -45 / -28 deg C<br /><br />Notes: nm = Nautical miles (1 nm = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />Phew, on Day 24 we finally crossed the 86th parallel, and are back powering ahead. The combination of the big drift and our ‘lost’ two days for the resupply made this degree seem to last forever.<br /><br />By the way, if anyone is wondering why we have been going slightly west from Day 1, it's on purpose as apparently there is a good chance of easterly drift as we approach the Pole.<br /><br />Things are changing quickly now, sun is stronger, temperature warmer, our gear is dryer, and we have had a 15-18 knot easterly wind which appears to bee locking up the ice pans, and reducing open water we expected with the super tides of perigee.<br /><br />The good news on the pemmican is that we have been given the "It's OK to eat" by a food hygiene expert. It tastes pretty sour, but 'the expert' says it's not going to affect us, other than any fussy eaters who don't like pemmican which tastes like sauerkraut! One of our team can't believe the taste of pemmican could get worse! Haha! While the crisis does seem to be behind us, we are treading cautiously for the next week, watching for any bad reactions. Getting this "OK" has been a real relief, as we were all a bit hyper on 'funny' tastes and slightly abnormal body functions!<br /><br />As I commented before: Isn’t it amazing how the human mind and body adjusts to new challenges?... Our heavy sleds now feel 'normal', and we are back to +10 mile days. OK, we have also increased the day's march time by an hour, so the march day typically goes from 9 30am to 7 30pm. (Eastern Standard Time)<br /><br />We were confused on Day 23 by remarkably warm weather, maybe even as warm as -20! I stopped in the middle of a march and removed all my layers except long underwear pants and top, plus the thin wind suit pants... real light clothing. I was so touched by this change in temperature and the sun was out, that I started singing that well known song "Summertime, and the living is easy"! I should have realized that singing that song in the Arctic is like whistling at sea... it calls the wind! A day later and we were dealing with -45, chilly head wind, and frozen whiskey! I had a difficult Day 24 as I was dressed for summer, and never quite got warm, definitely adding to my finger damage. The choice of clothing layers when we set out in the morning is critical, as major layer changes are very difficult to do on the march, and if one leaves an increase in layers a bit late, it can be quite scary. As you are changing everything is freezing more and your manual dexterity reduces dramatically to the point you can't do the very thing you NEED to do to help you warm up. Layering down is 'pleasant', but takes a lot of time, if one is dropping primary layers. It then includes taking off my boots, which is not fun even at -20!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzVCfeVl-XLyt9pQCaJMGM1UPLQ0q0Ii8JZjQBh3UFJeiSyVdE5n0LZEio7epJvcHtGHftJqzCb0CHvojNBZe45moi59JPHGPFu6f8I5TurcQqkI4t26O7CFBJaZ3V1cubXCh-uC84Wi8/s1600/david+4.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzVCfeVl-XLyt9pQCaJMGM1UPLQ0q0Ii8JZjQBh3UFJeiSyVdE5n0LZEio7epJvcHtGHftJqzCb0CHvojNBZe45moi59JPHGPFu6f8I5TurcQqkI4t26O7CFBJaZ3V1cubXCh-uC84Wi8/s320/david+4.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455178816413577938" border="0" /></a> David at step 3 of a 5 step process of getting down from the top of a 4m pressure ridge.<br /><br />It does feel more like summertime, as there is almost 24 hours light, with sunset around 9pm, and I don't know when sunrise is as it's always up when we get up (6am). The tent is always light, so one's time clock is confused! I have been enjoying my brand new outer sleeping bag... in fact with the extra sun hours and no night as such, its been so 'warm'' in the tent at night, so I have only used the outer bag and the 'evil' vapour barrier bag! Doing away with the inner bag has made the process of going to bed much simpler.<br /><br />The terrain has changed significantly from Nature's demolition zone I described last Post, to largely multi year ice covered in snow. Multi year ice is ice that hasn't been fractured and refrozen in the past year. This means that the terrain looks like a snow sea, with no / few exposed pressure ridges. Years of snow has covered the ridges / broken ice, and left an undulating soft snow surface, while easier than crossing pressure ridges is quite heavy going.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnCH2VQYq279bArsjoBHQ9OU6tqDtFc0Kkw0WzZ_sQf6b6z2IOyxfcjo4PUwWB_wzLZTtKjFfqhFw9QTiSrcblxX9tQ1T-IqcdnMoDaGhI3H3nFKviNStiMvXFtx-rlZ1jZgLsIG3hpc/s1600/sea+ice+and+lead+from+aabove+.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnCH2VQYq279bArsjoBHQ9OU6tqDtFc0Kkw0WzZ_sQf6b6z2IOyxfcjo4PUwWB_wzLZTtKjFfqhFw9QTiSrcblxX9tQ1T-IqcdnMoDaGhI3H3nFKviNStiMvXFtx-rlZ1jZgLsIG3hpc/s320/sea+ice+and+lead+from+aabove+.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455178826573651714" border="0" /></a> A view of an open lead and a sea of snow in the background.<br /><br />The 27 days of tough days 'on the road' is starting to tell amongst the team...pains are appearing, painkillers being used, waking up is harder, less talking on the marches, everyone really looks forward to the breaks between marches, and there is a lot of focus on trying to reduce sled and backpack weights where ever possible. This is the time in the expedition where I knew the mind would struggle, around halfway, but thinking how long ago Day 1 it's a bit daunting thinking we still have the same again! I have really tried to see the routine and the cold environment as 'my life', to be embraced, and enjoyed rather than longing to be back in my 'other life' and desiring the things you can't have here. For short trips one doesn't have to do that, but for long ones like this it's critical, and the difference between the situation as freedom versus a daily prison. I can see each member of the team approaching this potential problem in their own different way… The focus of conversation and how it switches between the now and the arctic environment versus 'home' and it's 'catching' says a lot!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo9RiI6GiZv0Lxm5fxmSOKgG7EGGHC7Se_WIfauL0W3kFnZJeGY04zdu2OUfRti7hPQd0vPoozjBPTu7jGRw68-7Q8mODQENqld49TedD6ygbMgNNIsRURoLUfCP-GQYSghORDNwmick/s1600/polar+bear+bag.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo9RiI6GiZv0Lxm5fxmSOKgG7EGGHC7Se_WIfauL0W3kFnZJeGY04zdu2OUfRti7hPQd0vPoozjBPTu7jGRw68-7Q8mODQENqld49TedD6ygbMgNNIsRURoLUfCP-GQYSghORDNwmick/s320/polar+bear+bag.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455178820743652690" border="0" /></a> Snow sculptures like this are common in the 'sea of snow' terrain we are currently in... I may be 'losing it' after 27 days out here, but I saw this sculpture as a polar bear climbing into its sleeping bag.<br /><br />I find my photography helps me get deeper into the now, and appreciating the absolute unique environment I am in. I often leave the group to go after photo shots, and then spend the next hour catching back up to them. It's also good for me as I can free myself of the monotony of 'just' mindlessly following another person's sled. I find particularly in the afternoons I start looking for alternate routes across ridges etc, which brings in another dimension of reading the ice and route planning. I have gained a lot of confidence through this, but like the sea, which it is, I never take it for granted, or think I'm in control. Yesterday, we had a situation where a snowed over lead looked totally safe, but as you poked through the snow it was just water… scary stuff and thankfully we had Richard's expertise preventing a disaster! I am really lucky that Richard is OK with me doing my 'own thing' sometimes, and as a follow on has asked me to lead the end of day marches. I have really enjoyed this!<br /><br />I wrote the above at the end of Day 25, well it's now end of Day 26, and hmmm... today I 'fell' into the water, and am feeling sorry for myself! How? Well after getting behind I was taking a 'short cut' trying to catch up and misjudged the end of the water and start of hard ice...yes that same snow covered water I mention above! Fortunately only one leg went in up to knee level. It doesn't sound like much, but as I pulled my now completely soaked boot out of the water it all froze immediately forming an ice case around the boot. I broke off as much ice as possible, and then started to walk as fast as I could to try warm up. After 3 hours of trying to win the battle of warm my toes as I walked, I realized I wasn't winning, so stopped and changed my first layer sock and encased it in a plastic bag I kept for this very purpose. Removing the boot was not an easy thing, and then having 1 minute with a bare foot exposed to the 15 knot easterly was not fun! Anyway once I had that all done and started walking my toes recovered fully. As further punishment, as I sit in the tent, I have just finished taking my boots apart (2 liners and shell) and had to spend 30 mins with the loo brush, getting rid of the snow and ice. Lesson learned... It will NEVER happen again!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4khtcDeQNPqDh7uIvmEwegGzw-G1l1pYIIeF5nJl3RFWz0mvK8dZ8QyB_U55WTBdQhjRSCXaH7ybUlkeobUFP_8XLAj9QSbjLCa75epDatw9KzTFjN1yUtnbSVtA9NFjY88-SNWeDfc/s1600/iced+boot.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4khtcDeQNPqDh7uIvmEwegGzw-G1l1pYIIeF5nJl3RFWz0mvK8dZ8QyB_U55WTBdQhjRSCXaH7ybUlkeobUFP_8XLAj9QSbjLCa75epDatw9KzTFjN1yUtnbSVtA9NFjY88-SNWeDfc/s320/iced+boot.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455178816394554082" border="0" /></a> My iced boot...!<br /><br />So finally back to "24 hours in the life of an expeditioner", and we have just fallen asleep....:<br /><br />Being packed like sardines, it's highly likely you wake up if your buddy next to you decides to turnover. Then the snoring, and sometimes talking in the sleep....<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2sHUo5ykcIV_OYizzL1od8N5gf59bZKCAbcOt5FnJGoCjpI2MgtL1MDr_ute7ci6zYRRRaLRnPJybERoozGE7yT1tJQAraj6wWgg2bJHJW1bEurfrruTXxS2J1KwLCe9CzZMc4k-Xxw/s1600/the+sun+and+our+tent+.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2sHUo5ykcIV_OYizzL1od8N5gf59bZKCAbcOt5FnJGoCjpI2MgtL1MDr_ute7ci6zYRRRaLRnPJybERoozGE7yT1tJQAraj6wWgg2bJHJW1bEurfrruTXxS2J1KwLCe9CzZMc4k-Xxw/s320/the+sun+and+our+tent+.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455178826498521746" border="0" /></a> Sunset and our home!<br /><br />I'm alarm timekeeper, and with the responsibility I somehow wake at around 5h30 and then stay awake waiting for the ever popular, 6am wakeup call! This time before 6am usually catalyzes me needing to use the in bag pee bottle! Always an unpleasant task, but better than the outside alternative! Being the only morning person, and the only one who sleeps with my tent boots on, I am first out the tent in the morning. Once all of us are out, and have packed away our sleeping bags, its then up to Tessum to put on his full windsuit and go back into the tent, pass all out all the stuff in the tent and then with the loo brush and diligently brush off all the ice on the inside of the tent. If we didn’t do that all the ice would melt and wet us and all our clothes, etc! After the brush off, all the stuff goes back into the tent, and 1st priority is warmth and getting the stoves lit. As that's complete, the 1st course of breakfast is handed out (frozen sucre bread, with peanut butter etc) with our 8 vitamin tablets. As the water on the stoves boils, coffee is served, and after that pemmican and rice. Which is then followed by lots of chatter, about anything from iPhones to Richard’s arctic stories. That's breakfast...<br /><br />To be continued!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-83463877312355862962010-03-25T16:17:00.010+00:002010-03-30T22:04:16.346+01:00Day 22: Two days of 'living it up', now back to reality, dealing with heavy sleds, lots of water, and playing drift catch-up...Expedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 22: End of Day Position: 85 49.3 N, 80 49.0 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 171.3 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Distance covered since last Post: 18.8 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Distance to The Pole: 250.7 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Overall distance versus plan: -0.0 days (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 23 April, + / - 3 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 9.8 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -38 / -30 deg C<br /><br />Notes: <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span> = Nautical miles (1 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span> = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />Well our two re-supply / rest days have come and gone, and we are 'on the road' again, back in the 9 hour march routine... only this time with sleds that are about 25% heavier than the sled weight on Day 1, and 60% heavier than the last ones we remember immediately prior to the re-supply, on day 18. This has all been a bit of a shock to the mind, but as adaptable as us humans are, it took about a day, a painful one at that before they were 'normal'.<br /><br />My last Post was from the eve of the re-supply... I thought it was 10:30 pm when I sent it, but it was actually 1:30 am in the morning! That was a big day with the open water lead crossing. Sorry, I don't have any good photos from it, but I had a 'technical problem'... It would be on the special occasion hey! I forgot to mention that even with the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">drysuit</span> and my 'normal' gear on underneath, the water was really cold on the body after a while. Richard stayed in the longest, doing a few shuttle swims, so came out really freezing. My <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">drysuit</span> also leaked a bit, a small seeping stream through to my crotch area… not fun when it froze!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTbEzGWpanfhFamwObrdUw72a5t2DwjD9SZQ6Lc7fWN14FqCLwvyv5-T3BaUc-XN678jXs42BQ_YK1nQJ9tMrNBg7-OzBYhFlRxp_HrMSR-4P14he5n4YA5Jg9ARdW1vgUig2WtQaRWIY/s1600/open+water+lead.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452612723804086530" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTbEzGWpanfhFamwObrdUw72a5t2DwjD9SZQ6Lc7fWN14FqCLwvyv5-T3BaUc-XN678jXs42BQ_YK1nQJ9tMrNBg7-OzBYhFlRxp_HrMSR-4P14he5n4YA5Jg9ARdW1vgUig2WtQaRWIY/s320/open+water+lead.JPG" /></a> Our open water lead crossing in progress. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">Tessum</span> broke the path through the thin ice.<br /><br /><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">Ok</span>, so now for our 2 re-supply days:<br /><br />We were sleeping in late, and right on his promise, Dave the pilot from Summit, flew low over our tent, buzzing his arrival....gee, it was emotional as I rocketed out of our tent to see him banking to come in for a marker drop to help him adjust for the wind. One more circuit and the first drop (of three) was released....but no parachute opening, just a huge thud as our first load crashed at high speed into the snow, about 300 metres from our tent! <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmmm</span>, not much would survive that impact! The other two parachuted perfectly to safe landings also near the tent. We all ran first to the crashed one and found the bad news: The replacement sleds were destroyed, one can of fuel burst contaminating food, and many food packages burst open. A little present was two containers of 'tinned' fruit that delivered perfectly served fruit on ice. Seeing fruit like that was irresistible and we just stopped work and savoured the 'special' look and taste of fruit!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGR8HifaAFjg8GiPxAMtnwFEMftLu1FVGLEuAR5_JcH0b1SSGQtNuLL7vNCfpzKgbGu9_hUOqHGgz158-zZf-cE920WqiFVrKiufAHsk58_SOJLGVYeGQrOyc5H1qAYpTdLUUPeHj1Wo/s1600/the_bad_drop.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452612842998676146" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGR8HifaAFjg8GiPxAMtnwFEMftLu1FVGLEuAR5_JcH0b1SSGQtNuLL7vNCfpzKgbGu9_hUOqHGgz158-zZf-cE920WqiFVrKiufAHsk58_SOJLGVYeGQrOyc5H1qAYpTdLUUPeHj1Wo/s320/the_bad_drop.JPG" /></a> The first drop that crashed into the snow without the parachute opening, destroying our replacement sleds, bursting fuel and food containers, and providing us with a few headaches!<br /><br />Unpacking the other two drops was like Christmas day present opening! Of course as things like chocolate brownies and cookies came up we 'had' to stop work and sample! We had forgotten much of what we had bought, so most items were truly present like. Our only 'bottle' of wine a specially chosen (for air transport and Oz origin!) “Thirsty Lizard” came through the drop with a slight leak, but 99% of its scarce content saved.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj053fdIBr8N-Qs2SGPE_TOUyPm5kUmWYzCSgXkDukyVECo3dt67FK_VcA6qAjjOUgwy-KDQLkqcHMl9HpnZ6ki5J2Tlh2SeACXXca2jmm_TKgGeNRy40SbP7Oy6wb9OuD3miNTRTLulLc/s1600/drop_landing_on_the_ice.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452612705233891618" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj053fdIBr8N-Qs2SGPE_TOUyPm5kUmWYzCSgXkDukyVECo3dt67FK_VcA6qAjjOUgwy-KDQLkqcHMl9HpnZ6ki5J2Tlh2SeACXXca2jmm_TKgGeNRy40SbP7Oy6wb9OuD3miNTRTLulLc/s320/drop_landing_on_the_ice.JPG" /></a> One of our drops his the snow spectacularly within 200 metres of our tent!<br /><br />We used the wooden bases of the palettes of each drop as tent floorboards, and 'retired' to our 2 day home for a wonderful feast in a warm virtual house environment. This being quite different from the 'on the road' house where the ice floor, limited fuel heating time, and continuous 'pressure' to pack and leave make for very transient living. Did we enjoy it, eating food chosen just based on taste bud delight, rather than the highest, 'calorie per gram' basis of the last 18 days! It was greed at its extreme, but we did feel we deserved it! Every now and then someone dampened the party by asking what our GPS position was. We were drifting south all the time, and in all the two days put us back 10 miles. We thought this would happen, and all agreed the rest was more important. The second day was not all relaxing, in fact pretty busy re-packing, fixing etc....We did sleep in though!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip517BolGe76GRqLcJcEqtYGZg_G5IebmxLGwYmB2-W0MHTIIQI98JCO_XQh4D5EMcPE-jBKuRk2DIzvd2Ef5hyjrOTyG0e85KsyD1Eq1GkZFGsRdTrOqQEkwGQvcSC6BF053ouWfHsp8/s1600/parachute_to_tent.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452612737254141170" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip517BolGe76GRqLcJcEqtYGZg_G5IebmxLGwYmB2-W0MHTIIQI98JCO_XQh4D5EMcPE-jBKuRk2DIzvd2Ef5hyjrOTyG0e85KsyD1Eq1GkZFGsRdTrOqQEkwGQvcSC6BF053ouWfHsp8/s320/parachute_to_tent.JPG" /></a> One of the parachutes leading to our 2 day home! We used some of the stuff from the parachute for repairs etc. Will it lie there for <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">eternity</span> preserved in snow and ice, or eventually be engulfed by open water and sink to the depths of the ocean?<br /><br />Some other potentially bad part of the re-supply was our discovery that the critical re-supply expedition food had been taken from its outdoor natural refrigerator in the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">Yelllowknife</span> hangar, to a warm place for packing onto the drop palettes. This unfreezing of the food has meant the pemmican has gone off! (The butter is slightly rancid, but all the other food is <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12" class="blsp-spelling-error">ok.</span>) Unfortunately pemmican is the major part of our diet. The extent of the problem from our ability to safely eat it is currently being established, but early reactions are worrying. We are busy looking at alternatives at the moment.<br /><br />The 2 days were great for team building as the pressure coming off and celebration of our team milestone brought out the personalities, around lively recalls of the 18 days, and personal banter of a level we had not experienced before... A great team maturing nicely!<br />That's all the story for the re-supply... pretty full on, fun yet challenging!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2GK5YtvT3NoTwA8ER2u1963VUo2HNiUndLRjKSU-zgdzGGZfvRW06RwOZ75lrTN8kGKe1Y2P_pLmjYzN2W_Y51sWTx-uCylDMTqW9Sc3vJbOoTQW_EAYqt2nbKHvZuhcty8Wnp3vy-Y/s1600/hf_roast_chicken.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452612716333658114" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2GK5YtvT3NoTwA8ER2u1963VUo2HNiUndLRjKSU-zgdzGGZfvRW06RwOZ75lrTN8kGKe1Y2P_pLmjYzN2W_Y51sWTx-uCylDMTqW9Sc3vJbOoTQW_EAYqt2nbKHvZuhcty8Wnp3vy-Y/s320/hf_roast_chicken.JPG" /></a> My own whole roast chicken!<br /><br />Day 21 started with David saying: "It feels like Monday, and going back to work!" <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmmm</span>, I actually woke wanting to get back to 'moving life', but as we connected sleds the huge 'new weight' made me re-think that! We have all been looking at ways to reduce sled weight, and I ditched most of my spare clothing, including my polar suit top. (The top designed for use in the severest cold. It's clear the coldest time is behind us now, with virtual 24 daylight, and long sun hours.)<br /><br />I experienced something new: We crossed a large pressure ridge as it was slowly collapsing. Basically, the ice pans either side of the ridge that had crashed into each other to form the ridge were now being blown apart collapsing the ridge. As we walked over it there was a pretty loud crunching / gnashing sound as the broken blocks of ice fell to lower positions..! Pretty scary stuff for me, but Richard was happy it was all safe. The end of Day 21 produced a meager 6.5 miles of progress to the Pole, which dented spirits a bit.<br /><br />I write this now at the end of Day 22:<br />I have finally got relaxed with my cocktail, after a very difficult day. Pemmican 'stuff' affected us a bit, but mainly the terrain was difficult, no sun, heavy sleds, and almost 10 hours marching trying to make up yesterday's lost miles. I expected the ice to be alive and messy, after waking to the sound of grinding ice, and lots of grey 'open water clouds' around. For most of the day it felt like we were in Mother Nature demolition zone. Huge broken leads, lots of thin ice, lots of big ice block pressure ridges, and just an obstacle course. Thankfully none of the open water needed swimming, as we found a way around each time. Lugging the extra heavy sleds over these ice pressure ridges was very tiring.<br /><br />With my new outer sleeping bag a lovely novelty, I'll wait for the next post to continue the “Day in a Life of a Polar <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14" class="blsp-spelling-error">expeditioner</span>!”<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_aZuHP6fGkEu1LTPE8vGYv-NF-oUTQjrAn2TqABjk_-vIj6DuBLbYU1U81r4ZPguKdsklFZcbMPYILSoI_XabdTe0-uu2JrXhmtTzP_h6SGvLqv_Dpr0mNKSJ8iKJqb1jHIWe6yB5DvQ/s1600/burying_outer_bag.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 322px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 241px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452612685640689858" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_aZuHP6fGkEu1LTPE8vGYv-NF-oUTQjrAn2TqABjk_-vIj6DuBLbYU1U81r4ZPguKdsklFZcbMPYILSoI_XabdTe0-uu2JrXhmtTzP_h6SGvLqv_Dpr0mNKSJ8iKJqb1jHIWe6yB5DvQ/s320/burying_outer_bag.JPG" /></a> Burying my old Outer Sleeping bag. I cut it up first and found all the rocks of ice! RIP!<br /><br />Till that next Post, take care!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-13731192708173578342010-03-21T12:34:00.007+00:002010-03-25T23:30:29.779+00:00Day 18: The Arctic ups the Ante, a Swim and the Sleds are needing a Re-supplyExpedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 18: End of Day Position: 85 44.4 N, 81 10.0 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 152.5 nm<br />Distance covered since last Post: 39.5 nm<br />Distance to The Pole: 269.5 nm<br />Overall distance versus plan: +0.5 nm (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 23 April, + / - 3 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 9.1 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -48 / -34 deg C (-57 wind chill)<br /><br />Notes: nm = Nautical miles (1 nm = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />The Story from the Ice:<br /><br />Firstly, I’d like to thank all of you who have sent through comments and emails. It’s just absolutely amazing and motivates me a lot. You must also know that with your comment you get my mind space on my march too.... Sorry if I can't respond to each individually, but I do want you to know I receive and value them.<br /><p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxiQkQC3ybyztXrQD5eDELqYXN4gI80ocxCgJHc7zVtLv778UgYDk0j_dAFK0XYDJ7K4_g2wva8jcPUfUqqTgbMzPir7ozCmYzEk5LE-1SUSJauwSY8UIu0itDBUC8X_HUYFEFT9PNxvs/s1600-h/13+midday__sunshadow.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451067395108870434" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxiQkQC3ybyztXrQD5eDELqYXN4gI80ocxCgJHc7zVtLv778UgYDk0j_dAFK0XYDJ7K4_g2wva8jcPUfUqqTgbMzPir7ozCmYzEk5LE-1SUSJauwSY8UIu0itDBUC8X_HUYFEFT9PNxvs/s320/13+midday__sunshadow.JPG" /></a> What is special about this photo...? Well firstly, as I'm sure you can see it's a shadow of me! Haha! It's my shadow at local noon, so is pointing straight to the North Pole. The shadow is very long because of the very low angle of the sun from the horizon, up here. Lastly, the ice on which I am standing is part of a huge refrozen lead, so you can see how flat it is to ski, and why we like them.<br /><br />It was going all too well, and we were expecting the Arctic to up its ante any day, and now it's happened.... Just a tweak up, it could be a lot worse!<br /><br />I am writing this at 1.30 am at the end of a long Day 18...12 hours out there marching...ooh, and swimming! Just as we were entering the last hour of our long day, we hit this wide and apparently endless 10mm ice lead. A quick test confirmed it was only 'crossable' by swimming. The next hour was spent doing that.... Tessum and I were first across in our drysuits, and then hurtling sleds and David and Richard. We had to break the thin ice as we swam. So, as I predicted in my last Post, we finally got our swim, about 150m!<br /><br />Days 16, 17 and 1/2 of 18 saw us having to deal with a northerly head wind, right 'on the nose'...I thought that was a sailing term but now (from my reshaped nose!) I know it’s an arctic expeditioner term!...Not only did this wind make marching very uncomfortable, it has been pushing the ice south too, so we have been drifting backwards (south) as we walk and sleep!....The drift has been between 0.10 and 0.25 miles per hour so costing us 2.5-5 miles a day! When we are only doing 11-12 miles a day marching this is a huge 'dent' in a days’ progress to the pole. It remains to be seen how long this north wind blows. From about four days back, the compass ceased working as we are in too close<br />proximity to the magnetic pole and the confusing fluxes around it.<br /><br />We had another amazing viewing of the power of Nature. This time it was the final 'death squeeze' in the ridge forming process. The ridge was formed, huge piles of large broken ice blocks now taken off the water, probably 0.75 m thick, being forced over each other one last time. As this eerie squeeze delivered its blow, the more vulnerable ones capitulate again, breaking a second time and finally falling into their new, high above the water, rest spots....ready to test next year's expeditioner!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjooELijw6W-xNO-JhZqq7LpS-EvtceCwaWTk3IfuTHu5x6vyY9GOnO3F38LyqBKWVAgfN0zP9ch1wIuoyIsMKB3UBfooOExnAAMXLYAOLQiZj_eNPc_AMWI6PB9-KgS0Z9ZiAXxB7WJIc/s1600-h/14+richard_and_tessum_at_lunch.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451065468983173042" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjooELijw6W-xNO-JhZqq7LpS-EvtceCwaWTk3IfuTHu5x6vyY9GOnO3F38LyqBKWVAgfN0zP9ch1wIuoyIsMKB3UBfooOExnAAMXLYAOLQiZj_eNPc_AMWI6PB9-KgS0Z9ZiAXxB7WJIc/s320/14+richard_and_tessum_at_lunch.JPG" /></a> Richard and Tessum: Like father, like son...lunch stop on -50 deg C wind chill...Lunch was very short!<br /><br />Gearing up for resupply: </p><p>As you probably know already, our expedition is SUPPORTED, which means we get resupplied along the way. Well when we started our sleds were only packed with 21 days of supplies, and they are now much lighter, and we will run out of food and fuel in a few days. (We started with sleds of about 60 kg, and every day they have been getting about 1.2kg lighter as we consume the contents.) So, what happens when we run out...?<br /><br />Fortunately our resupply will be 'dropped in', just in time, by air parachute (c/o Summit Air) to us on 21 March. This is a BIG day for us, as not only do we get vital food / fuel rations for the second part of the expedition, but we also have two days worth of 'normal' food and 'luxury' treats. We will have 1 day unpacking and repacking all 'the stuff', and then we are having a rest day....basically sleep! So we are in for two very special days, before resuming the rigors of the routine of the past 18 days, but with the shock of the fully stocked, heaviest ever sleds we have had! (about 75kg each). I hope the next Post will include photos of the re-supply drop in and some insights to our arctic<br />re-supply party, and day of gluttony! I am pretty excited getting into roast chicken, cookies, french cheese, cheese cake cappachino, and my South African delicacies!<br /><br />It’s not all been weight loss in the sled.... Unfortunately my outer sleeping bag has been getting 0.3kg heavier every day as it takes on moisture, mainly from my sweat as I sleep...scary hey! What's real scary is the fact that this new sleeping bag is now virtually useless, being full of ice rocks that are both bloody uncomfortable to sleep on and don't provide any insulation! We will have new outer sleeping bags with the resupply 'stuff'. The unsupported people carry a spare outer bag, wrapped up to keep dry for use later through their expedition.<br /><br />So, continuing with a day in my life....:<br /><br />So I am now asleep like a tightly packed sardine in our tent, with an ice rock outer sleeping bag as my mattress. Because it's lost most of its insulating performance I have now started sleeping in my liner boots! So hopefully you can now imagine us 'snuggly asleep'!<br /><br />As the night moves on there always comes a point where the desperate and intensive fight with my inner vapour barrier bag begins! (This bag is basically a thin, claustrophobic plastic bag that's supposed to reduce moisture traveling from me to both my sleeping bags.) The fight happens because I feel like I am suffocating as the plastic gets sucked onto both my air intakes. I have to find the opening and quick! Fortunately it’s so cold outside my sleeping bags that I can feel my way to the 'life saving' outlet by following the coldness. The<br />relief of getting to fresh air is soon replaced by the shock of my hand now being out in - 40 degree air, and the second gulp of air chilling my throat! Once that fight is over, the snoring and talking in sleep seems pretty easy to deal with!<br /><br />It's getting late, so I'll send this now, and continue 'my sleep time<br />description next time....<br /><br />Next Post will have our swim photos and coverage of our re-supply day 'party'!<br /><br /><strong>A Special Response to BJHS North Pole Followers</strong>:<br /><br />It's really great to have you guys following our expedition, and I hope one day I'll be back in Yellowknife to meet you! Thank you for your care about my face and fingers, they are doing well. </p><p>So far I have really enjoyed the expedition, and I think it's going to deliver what I expected.<br /><br />Re the fog: Yes it does slow us down a bit, as we use visual navigation a lot, and the fog doesn't allow us to see the next ice mound to aim for.<br /><br />I'll try and think about you guys and what you may find interesting for future Posts. Now take care, Howard<br /><br /></p>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-24672826508422133672010-03-16T14:18:00.008+00:002010-03-25T23:28:46.671+00:00Day 13: Lots of Action and the 85th Degree a Day awayExpedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 13: End of Day Position: 84 51.25 N, 80 02.69 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 113 nm<br />Distance covered since last Post: 43.5 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Distance to The Pole: 309 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span><br />Overall distance versus plan: -1.3 days (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 22 April, + / - 3 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 9.0 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -43 / -32 deg C<br /><br />Notes: <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span> = Nautical miles (1 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">nm</span> = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />As you maybe able to work out, we are making amazing progress, and today, Day 13, produced a new day's record of 11.7 miles. Today's mileage included crossing 4 huge frozen leads. I needed to switch from snow shoes to skis for 2 of them due to the thin ice. These leads are all from the super tide of 2 weeks back which clearly caused havoc in the ocean then, but time and the cold has managed to 'repair' all the breakage. We were just saying how scary it must have been being out here when it was all breaking up!<br /><br />Much of our good progress can be attributed to Richard's expertise: Firstly in routing us as direct north as possible with limited navigation aids, and secondly his route picking crossing all the pressure ridges and other obstacles. Everyday we must cross 50+ mini mountain passes over boulder ice mountains. Choosing the best pass over these mountains can save a lot of time and effort, and Richard's experience shines evidently throughout every day. Our next concern point is the full moon and associated spring tides at the end of March. There is potential for extensive ice breaking up again. I guess we shall see.....<br /><br />The temperature has been warmer than I had prepared for but it's still cold and every day I have at least one cold 'issue' where I have to dig deep to prevent damage. It always happens at either the start of the day or after a 'lunch' break when I have got cold. Once I get going and reach 'in the groove' temperature it's never a problem for the rest of a march.<br /><br />The day following my last post produced the first true open ocean area. Compared to the previous open leads this was a huge pan of real green arctic sea water...and the water was an interesting green colour. We all donned skis to cross lots of thin ice, and Richard found us an amazing ice route across the pan. I sense that things are 'a-changing' and a day for swimming is not far off. We have seen lots of level cloud, and fog all around, all indications of lots of open water. Last Post, I referred to the sterility, but all this has changed, with the open water.....On day 12 we came across Polar bear tracks, a single medium size bear that had passed in a south westerly direction. Probably heading towards the open water in search of a seal. It is interesting to think of the quality of life of a single 'lonely' polar bear, in this harsh and bleak environment!<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlONihwYm2wiZb68u9iakZHAL_kwdBgmNme708h-e5iD89zViju6NXbact_yirjzxl3jQc0xVhwOfCWtrN8UvZQ93lxRJWgVBrCvDjih9930FNEW8C5Zc62A9zYePGpiHkHd6bd6FclmU/s1600-h/bear_print.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449236325389252962" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlONihwYm2wiZb68u9iakZHAL_kwdBgmNme708h-e5iD89zViju6NXbact_yirjzxl3jQc0xVhwOfCWtrN8UvZQ93lxRJWgVBrCvDjih9930FNEW8C5Zc62A9zYePGpiHkHd6bd6FclmU/s320/bear_print.JPG" /></a> Polar bear print.<br /><br />On the night of Day 10 just as we were preparing to get into our sleeping bags we heard the all too familiar now...boof...boof...boof, that sounded really close by. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmm</span>, are we and our tent in the way of nature's pressure ridge construction process? We went out to inspect but fortunately the ice ramming activity was a safe distance away. It does make one think of the scenario of being woken with breaking ice on our doorstep! The way we try to mitigate against this is by selecting camp sites way away from any pressure ridges, or leads.<br /><br />Day 11 was my worst so far. It all started as I put my head out of the tent at 6h15 to find an eerie grey world with thick fog everywhere. I'd been warned to expect many days like this, but after 10 amazing clear and sunny days this was a shock. Basically the fog stayed around the whole day, making ‘my world’ very small, and requiring me to dig deep for the 9 march hours. That had not been a problem before, as I had found the visible environment was stimulating in its unique starkness. We shall see in the more 'fog days' ahead. It is interesting what one thinks about out here.... In one of these moments, I decided the 'Purpose of Life' for the moment (<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">haha</span>, a contradiction hey!) is to fully embrace my Arctic / North Pole experience! These Posts and trying to deliver something special for you are part of that, so thanks for being there with me.....<br /><br />I am undoubtedly the leader in 'getting wet' experiences, with 3 times 'boot in the water', and one knee in the water while taking a photo kneeling on thin ice. However <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">Tessum</span> was first to dunk his sled in the water, and I managed to capture it on camera below:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslha6Rby1u51bOP91WADmxKw5VhwEmMImkp4LNGwcNZkiJTiyk2GNBtwjd3_O-uqhH-Rf_4tD9z5BED5edSTZylgOfOhQ1RX5lBXzOLsVe-qla7jkvEBE3dNxsoRKiWYcvKv9IZDgBhc/s1600-h/sled_crossing_in_the_water.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449236309120996866" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslha6Rby1u51bOP91WADmxKw5VhwEmMImkp4LNGwcNZkiJTiyk2GNBtwjd3_O-uqhH-Rf_4tD9z5BED5edSTZylgOfOhQ1RX5lBXzOLsVe-qla7jkvEBE3dNxsoRKiWYcvKv9IZDgBhc/s320/sled_crossing_in_the_water.JPG" /></a> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">Tessum's</span> sled falls through the ice!<br /><br />One may get the impression that we are moving along 'trouble free', but this is a harsh and demanding environment and we have had our fair share of equipment breakage / failure: To date we have broken a ski pole, seriously cracked two of the sleds, worn out 2 pairs of mittens, cracked two sets of crampons on the snow shoes, broken a ski binding, and many ‘ski-tow hitch' lanyards have broken. Fortunately through Richard's experience we have spares and repair 'bits and pieces' with us, so have been able to painlessly repair the equipment. Richard and I stitched up the sleds using wire thread stitched through newly drilled holes. The sleds in particular take a huge pounding as they hurtle over the ice boulders crashing to the ground...once or twice out of control and ending up mowing me over, leaving my ego badly damaged!<br /><br />Two of the sleds are no longer capable of floating in the water, but in the next day or so we will have sealed the cracks so they will be ready for our first swim!<br /><br />Continuing where I left of last Post with my 'A day in the life of a North Pole <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">expeditioner</span>, I have now entered the tent, and it's about 7pm....<br /><br />The one stove has just started heating the tent, and the other two are being fired up....My cold world of the 9 hour march is left behind me for at least a few hours, and a warm, social environment awaits. But before I can relax, there is housework to be done...... My gloves, neck tube, hat and socks have to be hung up at the roof apex of the tent using safety pins on our washing line. This is so they will dry using the heat from the stoves and be ready to keep us warm for the next day ahead. By now the big water pot is on the 3 stoves, melting snow for our highly prized 'end of day' reward: a 'Weber cocktail'... Richard won't tell us the main ingredients, but it’s like a warm <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-error">horlicks</span> drink, plus a large amount of 'Canadian maple sugar', served in our individual mugs to which we then each add 'the main ingredient'.... David's extra special Scotch whiskey! Most nights its just 1.5 'measure' each, but for special occasions (e.g. crossing 84 degrees, and our day 11 record of 11.6 miles) we go up to 4 measures! Gee, these cocktails go down REALLY well!<br /><br />While the water is boiling, I have to remove my boots, 4 layers of socks, and then brush my inner boots from my ski boots dry of all snow and ice using the loo brush.... The 2<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span> sock layer is basically a thin waterproof liner that keeps sweat in the inner sock. Anyway all this has to be taken 'apart' and dried for the next day. Once our boots are brushed off, we put them back on and have 'evening slippers' that go over them so we catwalk outside without getting too cold.<br /><br />Cooking then continues with our 'second course', a wonderful pemmican / noodle dish, with either pine nuts or coconut <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">crème</span>, it's always a surprise which it will be! I usually have two full plates worth!<br /><br />All the time there is lots of chatting, about everything from the day's progress, to real 'boys' stuff! It's been great having all this interaction after the pretty solitary 9 hour marches.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_E6wYbWzU3bQv0px69jE7hSdEEXNWGyVTMhOSoITb2nH1cDZZIwi913SW8eyKvE1mBumKnEQGoN9mhaMQ29cTADvyBZZ05RCCv9GZHlCc8REvzbOqHc5BeLUNMRKak8TjUkv8065DgCM/s1600-h/dinner_time_in_tent.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5449236317345813826" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_E6wYbWzU3bQv0px69jE7hSdEEXNWGyVTMhOSoITb2nH1cDZZIwi913SW8eyKvE1mBumKnEQGoN9mhaMQ29cTADvyBZZ05RCCv9GZHlCc8REvzbOqHc5BeLUNMRKak8TjUkv8065DgCM/s320/dinner_time_in_tent.JPG" /></a> Dinner time in tent!<br /><br />A short while after the main course we have 'desert' which is a warm cup of 'muscle milk'.... a variety of lovely flavours of muscle recovery drink!<br /><br />Around 9h30, the bad moment is called..."stoves out!" From that point on the tent temperature is on its way down to the outside temperature. We then have to 'rush' out of the tent, grab our 3 sleeping bags and night pee bottle then have a last, 'cold' proactive pee! The sleeping bags stay outside so they don't take in moisture while the stoves are on.<br /><br />The race is then on to get into the 3 sleeping bag layers one by one before you 'freeze'. It's quite a challenge, but I feel more than adequately rewarded when I'm finally tucked in and feel things warming up inside. A few 'seconds' later through shear exhaustion I am in dream land...<br /><br />Next post.... The night, waking in our frozen home and breakfast!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-84807499185752894702010-03-11T21:22:00.005+00:002010-03-25T23:26:30.279+00:00Day 9: Our first major latitude line crossing, and…Expedition Statistics<br /><br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 9: End of Day Position: 84 07.75 N, 78 52.5 W<br />Distance covered since the start: 69.5 nm<br />Distance covered since last Post: 38.7 nm<br />Distance to The Pole: 352.5 nm<br />Overall distance versus plan: +1 day (Versus original Ward Hunt Island start point)<br />(- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 23 April, + / - 3 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 9.0 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -47 / -30 deg C<br /><br />Notes: nm = Nautical miles (1 nm = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />Our first major latitude line crossing, and…:<br /><br />Gee, I feel some much more relaxed and in tune with this Arctic environment versus how I felt when I wrote my last Post! Nine days done, the 1st degree milestone accomplished, land almost out of sight, we are now the leading expedition (closest to the Pole) and a few battle scars to show for it all!<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4cPcqW6QSl9a0A5qcLTSWMFJnX4SffaMgAFl14JFk5DgYTqsP-L-dUPYrp55LjmWiGmJkkApuMPml5hAEDx28QJxFcM4VV9DYA4_Fwh5MJd1LHkhyphenhyphenwl6XHk1tz8Apw7VUZGDdGkHIWXs/s1600-h/hf++scarred+face.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447774732095943538" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4cPcqW6QSl9a0A5qcLTSWMFJnX4SffaMgAFl14JFk5DgYTqsP-L-dUPYrp55LjmWiGmJkkApuMPml5hAEDx28QJxFcM4VV9DYA4_Fwh5MJd1LHkhyphenhyphenwl6XHk1tz8Apw7VUZGDdGkHIWXs/s320/hf++scarred+face.JPG" /></a> A lovely cold damaged nose!<br /><br />The hard work of daily disciplined 9 hour marches is paying dividends as we have had good daily averages since the last Post. The huge frozen lead we were on continued for another amazing day (10 miles in total), virtually going true north directly the directly the route to the Pole. Almost like a super highway. These frozen leads are very smooth newly frozen ice, which then has fresh snow on it. The snow on the surface has an amazing range of shapes, depending on its age and exposure to the wind. Sometimes it truly looks like white fine bowling green grass stretching for hundreds of metres. It can also take the look of undersea coral, and then amazingly a haphazard cluster of fine fibre glass strands. The main thing for us is that the frozen lead has virtually no obstacles and a fast surface for the sleds...so miles fly by!<br /><br />After the end of the highway the frozen ocean started looking more like an ocean with mainly undulating swells frozen in time, and then every 1/2 a mile or so we would come across fairly small pack ridge ice. On day 8 we found ourselves running into a large (200m wide), freshly frozen / still freezing lead, that was running east / west and as we were to find out, a significant obstacle. It looked frozen and 'cross-able' on ski's, but after testing the ice, it was definitely too thin. (I am on snowshoes most of the time, towing the ski's behind, only switching for thin ice) We decided to ski close to the edge where it was thicker, but soon saw open water patches and then hastily, but carefully we went off the lead for a while. It became apparent that this was a huge lead and a huge barrier to our progress. As we stood on terra firma, at the edge of the lead I witnessed something I will remember for the rest of my life: firstly there was this noise like an old steam driven pile driver...doof...doof...doof, and as I looked down at the ice, each 'dooh' was a ram by the ice pan on the opposite side driving the newly frozen ice into the terra firma I was standing on! This caused the new ice to buckle, crack and then crumble forming a brand new pressure ridge right in front of my eyes. The noise was eerie! As the ice cracked water oozed out and then a new open water channel appeared.....hmmmm, nature at work, and live, no movie, or TV show, this was the real thing...the making of a pressure ridge, and we needed to cross it! I felt so excited, like a little boy in a new playground. Richard said: Maybe we should use the dry suits and 'just cross', others said lets wait till the morning when the lead should have totally frozen, but I had no hesitation in supporting 'exploring'! The guys even commented that they hadn't seen me so excited yet! So....we decided to don the dry suits pack our backpacks, skis and snowshoes on the sled and walk precariously across the thin ice, pulling the sled by hand, and ready to swim if the ice broke! With the dry suit on I felt 'invincible' and ready for a swim! As I walked I could feel the ice bending and flexing on the water below. Anyway after about 20 mins we had crossed the lead, all feeling very proud of the huge time saving we had achieved. As we awkwardly took off our drysuits, I could still hear the doof....doof...doof, as the piledriver continued making the new pressure ridge using the ice we had just walked on... Special stuff!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMybjCBHVRhHwF9gkQUtxJtgHwhOGDghUcLIY6tTzQTvHBFwWwP8pgLIrdlhaypLQfXg64zkav0KUAgktwXyC4GvReTnPcrAcC62xRCKTgp2aFCofTnH2nXkJerOB_IgY_xG7SZUkuZKM/s1600-h/pressure+ridge.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447489872747630194" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMybjCBHVRhHwF9gkQUtxJtgHwhOGDghUcLIY6tTzQTvHBFwWwP8pgLIrdlhaypLQfXg64zkav0KUAgktwXyC4GvReTnPcrAcC62xRCKTgp2aFCofTnH2nXkJerOB_IgY_xG7SZUkuZKM/s320/pressure+ridge.JPG" /></a> An example of a pressure ridge! Flatish trail, then one hits this as a barrier across the desired path. The ridge rubble could extend for 1km behind this!<br /><br />Physically, I feel quite a wreck, but also feel I have come through a baptism of fire with flying colours! I have one badly cold damaged index finger (1 step before frostbite), a few minor cold 'burns' on other fingers, a badly blistered nose, a few bloodied toenails, lots of aches and pains all over the body, but a strong soul and spirit. I feel like I really have come through 9 days of real learning, and am starting to feel at ease here. Managing ones body temperature very finely is the key, and proactive clothing layer and march pace management are key. Sweat is almost worse than being a bit too cold. At these temperatures sweat eventually freezes some where between your skin and your outer clothing layer forming another VERY undesirable crusty, cold new 'clothing layer'. The cold environment doesn't scare me anymore, and the last day of -30 or so felt TOTALLY at home, and even too warm! I guess our amazing human bodies adapt far beyond what we imagine.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWTDF5eTmfSGahK8mCIxAAkDh1w67VhMGyhfl_vikU945JuZaXlokHj6saWDfo8lzuMxEwfKx7VDnXMYpM2Grk-N0thsO36BRdAldFKyVAM_qUKSaTQOGYp-oVi8F57QSDwx_jSx5eNU/s1600-h/hf+finger.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447774723971819474" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWTDF5eTmfSGahK8mCIxAAkDh1w67VhMGyhfl_vikU945JuZaXlokHj6saWDfo8lzuMxEwfKx7VDnXMYpM2Grk-N0thsO36BRdAldFKyVAM_qUKSaTQOGYp-oVi8F57QSDwx_jSx5eNU/s320/hf+finger.JPG" /></a> My cold damaged index finger, Result of the -51 C day's testing the limits!<br /><br />The sun is getting stronger and staying up longer, so it’s getting warmer and feels better each day. The interesting thing is that our long shadows (the sun stays low on the horizon) point directly to the North Pole at roughly 12h10 (local midday) everyday. So we just follow our shadows!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wpSF-ihMnzBR3gz4LTpx-cpBarOKwUExzI89miQ6ZumGintDBe0uPR2ymWibXhFpI_DSU0JBTLDdKEMkecCORg30R0-RsMlX0r2ElDSt86enwjh9OqKA_ukCU0w6GWCzwn2oMGEBCns/s1600-h/lunch+stop+pose.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447489863233427026" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wpSF-ihMnzBR3gz4LTpx-cpBarOKwUExzI89miQ6ZumGintDBe0uPR2ymWibXhFpI_DSU0JBTLDdKEMkecCORg30R0-RsMlX0r2ElDSt86enwjh9OqKA_ukCU0w6GWCzwn2oMGEBCns/s320/lunch+stop+pose.JPG" /></a> Posing at 'lunch stop', usually 5 mins because we get so cold.<br /><br />Yesterday felt like I really was out on the open ocean. The terrain was almost all 'undulating swells', and limitless horizon for almost 360 degrees. It reminded me of the Australian GAFA...and I named it the new GAFA...The Great Arctic FA... There is nothing but snow and ice here. With no permanent open water around there is no visible sea life, so no Polar bears, nor other land animals, nor birds, there is no food for anything. Makes one wonder what lives beneath the ice Its just stark and sterile, but at the same time possessing a unique beauty.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYGZGR4CyX09XbCheiYcBHTnh7pkq3jnf1G0GYgxL3vF1GdrV12HHM1Ou4DPtQvRp1Jzq5XTH-FNi-b3xJNSpavIeE8RRb7n-yTpGWlAdF-a0L697ine27Mb3nW16S6rWk2HNg7Hmb5o/s1600-h/richard+checkng+lead+ice.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447489879008443794" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYGZGR4CyX09XbCheiYcBHTnh7pkq3jnf1G0GYgxL3vF1GdrV12HHM1Ou4DPtQvRp1Jzq5XTH-FNi-b3xJNSpavIeE8RRb7n-yTpGWlAdF-a0L697ine27Mb3nW16S6rWk2HNg7Hmb5o/s320/richard+checkng+lead+ice.JPG" /></a> Richard doing 1st check of the ice thickness before crossing the lead. Exciting stuff!<br /><br />I thought it maybe of interest to go through our 'typical' day routine with you. I'll do this over the next few Posts, starting today with the end of march time...18h30 currently:'<br /><br />So, we have been marching for 9 long hard hours, and its now come to a welcome end...we all feel weary, with a few upper body aches from the weight of our backpacks and the continuous tugging of the sled line. Time to find a camp site....hmm, it always seems like where we stop is always too icy to plant tent poles (the ski's). So we wander around looking for soft snow....so the march isn't over yet! Eventually we find a spot, backpacks off, snowshoes off, sleds are opened, ski's disconnected from the sleds, and ski poles, are 'victoriously' tossed into the central tent site, ready for later use.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLugkEQyurtcGvXuEy4VaCRkMG_VNwbY0T307DX_wMii5DHJR_udU_MS5RX33OeLQXg18Z_v0Z2w5t6JWae6Eq8i2H4kLYfitBRJBOkY2LYO2QhtXdyZoMVBDjzmABnUNJknW3ikKXeJU/s1600-h/hf+drysuit.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447489859796374930" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLugkEQyurtcGvXuEy4VaCRkMG_VNwbY0T307DX_wMii5DHJR_udU_MS5RX33OeLQXg18Z_v0Z2w5t6JWae6Eq8i2H4kLYfitBRJBOkY2LYO2QhtXdyZoMVBDjzmABnUNJknW3ikKXeJU/s320/hf+drysuit.JPG" /></a> Me 'happy' in my dry suit towing the sled but walking carefully on real thin ice, that flexes as you walk on it!<br /><br />There is pressure on me; I carry the tent and two CRITICAL loo brushes! Both these items needed first and urgently...the tent is obvious, but the loo brushes?.....Well they are needed to brush off all the snow / ice from sweat / breath etc that has built up on our clothing. Being in a warm tent without doing that will mean your clothes getting sopping wet, and then never dry!<br /><br />Next is putting up the tent, which now takes about 20 minutes. Once the tent is up Richard and Tessum go in to set up the 'kitchen', and David and I finishing building the tent, by shoveling snow around the tent sealing it against the wind, and making it stable. My final outside task is filling the big tent bag with 'quality' snow to melt for water. By now the stoves are alight, and I can't wait to get inside, as my hands are normally on the edge of cold damage. Gee, it feels so good as I put my head inside our warm room for the next few hours...<br /><br />Continue next Post...<br /><br />Forward to the next degree....Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-79973721523587233282010-03-08T18:01:00.005+00:002010-03-25T23:26:10.903+00:00Day 5: The First Story from the Ice<div align="left"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mHOZ-qpTv1fNt9KlwkuzFOSoZUDuq8iW_UoFajtgTvE_YTpYhH_IB_58QufLu7wTknGUcouXULDekWdKSFPiBUj0d6L5l6LQXT5goqMlHVYi9Iu4Jf1lhLuNPaC13ywXy6B575bsZyE/s1600-h/1+about_to_start_walking_plane.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446328209829340866" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mHOZ-qpTv1fNt9KlwkuzFOSoZUDuq8iW_UoFajtgTvE_YTpYhH_IB_58QufLu7wTknGUcouXULDekWdKSFPiBUj0d6L5l6LQXT5goqMlHVYi9Iu4Jf1lhLuNPaC13ywXy6B575bsZyE/s320/1+about_to_start_walking_plane.JPG" /></a>DC3 Drops us on the ice, for the start.<br /><br />Expedition Statistics:<br />Expedition Start Point: 82 58.02N, 77 23.28W<br />Day 5: End of Day Position: 83 28.85 N, 77 48.0 W<br />Distance covered since last Post: 30.8 nm<br />Distance to The Pole: 389 nm<br />Overall distance versus plan: +3.2 nm (- Behind plan, + Ahead of plan)<br />North Pole ETA: 22 April, + / - 3 days<br />Ave hrs / day marched for this period: 9.0 hrs<br />Coldest / Warmest temp for this period: -51 / -40 deg C<br /><br />Notes: nm = Nautical miles (1 nm = 1.8 kilometers)<br />Expedition days are ‘1 sleep’ days, and may not = calendar days<br /><br />Last Post I was in the comforts of Southcamp Inn, Resolute, my how life has changed! I sit here in our snug tent, 3 stoves roaring on max, providing heat for cooking, drying our gear and also heating the tent so we can have a pleasant 3 hours rest and social time. It provides the beacon of motivation and focus for the long 9 hour march days.<br /><br />From the progress statistics above, you could conclude we aren't going to make it 5 days gone (10% of 50 days), and only 30 Nautical miles or 7% done! Well yes, the going has been very slow, as we have had to deal with four open water leads, albeit relatively small ones, and yesterday we had huge pressure ridges that virtually stopped us for 3/4 of the day. The surprise has also been the -ve drift we have experienced. From night 2, we were on ice that is drifting, unfortunately southwards, so two nights as we slept, we got taken back some distance (3 miles in total) by the current. Basically, as expected, the ice is much more fragmented than 'usual', and is already broken free of the mainland shelf ice. In all his years of doing this, Richard has never experienced open leads, and drift at this point in the journey! This being a combination of the super tide of 1 March, and global warming. The Arctic is REALLY changing hey! What this means for us is not the best of news, but progress is ahead of plan at this early stage. Today, Day 5, was the bonus day.....We managed to find a huge frozen lead, running north / south, which REALLY helped our progress. We did an amazing 10.5 miles today, and not one pressure ridge to deal with.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUPHugN5EQVqfYvWD1DUVMZVoaVM0yFnLexQHmi2E_aHKtQMN65SIV7JQ_zwoVrdlK5QGMj263QpYBq-nia4pKU3AcRtlYo1bJyKK779XGtMguIpbcsumwRCGNsE_C1JUeBBd-oMq1Dk/s1600-h/2+first_lead+day+2.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446325377220144354" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirUPHugN5EQVqfYvWD1DUVMZVoaVM0yFnLexQHmi2E_aHKtQMN65SIV7JQ_zwoVrdlK5QGMj263QpYBq-nia4pKU3AcRtlYo1bJyKK779XGtMguIpbcsumwRCGNsE_C1JUeBBd-oMq1Dk/s320/2+first_lead+day+2.JPG" /></a> The first open lead.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQhAErKEeSEfnnmaGfP_HPFPirUcG7hUXWnsVP0sdUaWKS-E76CbEa_UDXSvgIWAGQSTYT-Jjoz2C34_w6KbRWl5w7qotSPR6HcUW4jzOb3X6QL1S9_kMXlfsmdl0SmZXEosLcjXrGf0/s1600-h/3+richard_checking_a_lead.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446325388625786946" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQhAErKEeSEfnnmaGfP_HPFPirUcG7hUXWnsVP0sdUaWKS-E76CbEa_UDXSvgIWAGQSTYT-Jjoz2C34_w6KbRWl5w7qotSPR6HcUW4jzOb3X6QL1S9_kMXlfsmdl0SmZXEosLcjXrGf0/s320/3+richard_checking_a_lead.JPG" /></a> Richard checking a lead.<br /><br />On Day 2 I was amazed to see ice drift in action! While walking, the huge sheet of ice (or pan) was approaching us but sliding over the one we were walking on. The approaching one was about 25cm thick and just being forced over our one. I estimate it was moving at 1cm / sec, and with a violent gnarling sound. We ended up having to jump step onto it before we got 'mowed down'! Quite amazing!<br /><br />We have been spared extreme temperature, with our coldest day being today a relatively warm -51 C. Both our thermometers 'over heated' and burst in the DC3 flying from Resolute. The cabin temperature control was limited and we must have had +50 C in the passenger area. One of the bindings on the snowshoes was almost melted through! So sorry no accurate temperatures!<br /><br />On Day 2, the sun only rose at 11h00, and set about 14h30, but the dawn and dusk are very long and provide wonderful orange skylines. Every day the sunlight hours increase by a huge 1hr, and by March 21 we should have 18 hrs sunlight, and from 31 March 24 hours sun. We can't wait, but will miss these beautiful twilight hours. The twilight with the varying ice landscapes provides wonderful scenery for the arches....oohh well until we hit the pressure ridge ice rubble. Crossing these ridges is like towing a heavy sled over a wide boulder filled river. The boulders are huge chunks of ice, clearly the product of a serious ice pan crash. It's hard to describe how tough and violent pulling a sled across this terrain. It's really exhausting, and sometimes ends in a fall, or the sled careening virtually out of control over an ice cliff smacking straight into one of us below. We all are responsible for getting our own sleds over these ridges as often the tight access only allows one person. This can involve unclipping the sled and shoving or pulling it vertically up a 'mountain', and over a cliff the other side. We are fortunate that there are flatter sections between these ridges, but one never knows what's ahead....as today's bonus frozen lead showed.<br /><br />Last night we identified the North Star, which is located directly above our destination, the NORTH POLE.<br /><br />So, what’s happened to Indinda? After the initial Arctic shock, he has settled down well, and as the photo shows has adapted well to sleeping outside! My team mates have a bet with me that I will get tired of carrying this not so insignificant weight, and dump him as the tiresome journey takes its toll. I have a pact with myself that he will get to the Pole! Indinda on my pack (below):</div><div align="center"><br /></div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446325401572827170" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDL1F_xF1XGw5j44ZyqMMOIG3-GyOw1mCREBesp3zd8hkTn4tz6QSNS6xvm_8vqElx6mOzmfZ34UkL9huFVIEwYpWkg7MDR1O1ztLTZgYGni-GJPA1mN8yOQfX8V8jLnQS0Hg-e96BREg/s320/4+giraffe_awakening.JPG" /><br />Physically I am doing ok! The problem toe, after being a worry Day 1, is now good. Frostbite is a big worry, and the past two days I have been right on the edge of what my fingers can take. They have cold damage, but fortunately not frostbite. I now understand and known my limit, so at that point just before things shutdown I stop walking and do lots of arm windmills that get the circulation back...not pleasant stuff! We heard yesterday that the Irish team have sadly aborted their expedition due to bad frostbite, and were being emergency rescued today. Today, we discussed the scenario for our team....necessarily, but not a good discussion!<br /><br />Teamwise, things are going great, but not what I would have predicted..... Richard and Tessum stick together at the front, and I have decided to stay with David behind, with me the 'guard train' last coach. This has been the best for the team, and I'm happy with my role. I've saved a few left behind skis that come unattached with the violent jarring. The guard was embarrassed yesterday when my thermos fell out after a big fall, but with no guard after me I only found out 2km later. I ended up running back to find it and then had a wonderful sled march at 'my speed' catching up without lost time!<br /><br />That's all for now, don't take those showers, latte’s, beers, fruit, vegetables, carbohydrates for granted.Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-67637300008347888012010-03-03T23:40:00.005+00:002010-03-04T00:02:00.958+00:00The Final Hours ... Whoopsie!<div align="left">The last 24 hours before we left for the final flight started with a dress rehearsal: I got up at 5h30 with the Irish team of 3, and Michele, the solo, unsupported guy. They were given the go ahead by the pilot, and a fairly frantic last minute runaround started....breakfast, final packing, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">phonecalls</span>, team photos and emotional goodbyes. I was really glad I was part of it, we had become good friends, and I was surprised how I felt envious I wasn't going....<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">hmm</span>, 24hrs time, and its MY turn! (Hopefully!)<br /><br />Our Start point has changed again: Lots of discussions around the ice today, and finally the feedback from the pilot Troy, after his flight today has changed our plan. The ice conditions around Ward Hunt Island sound bad, and the place where my friends Dan and Amelia started from is now favoured again. The large open water lead has refrozen closed (as they do at -45 deg C, so it seems odds are much better leaving from the point about 7 miles south west of the Island....Cape Discovery, or <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">McLintock</span> Inlet. So, FINAL, that's where we will be leaving from!<br /><br /><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">Ok</span>, so back to the last few hours....<br /><br />I never imagined getting to the point where I am actually packing the sled for the LAST time, ensuring I have everything I need in it, and it is in the best condition for the task ahead. Here is a photo of me putting the final piece, our tent, into the sled bag, before I finally close the lid. I did this inside as I had to make adjustments that needed room temperature. The sleds are packed<br />with food that needs to be 'refrigerated', so they normally stay outside all the time in 'Nature's fridge'. Compared to all the other expedition sleds, ours look like they have come from a 'toy shop'.....far from it, simple yes, but I know Richard knows his stuff, and I know we have the best sleds for the task ahead.<br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnM0qnQA1kf2Ryz8SP3crORHvO0OUqGM08gTWqj24fhvUJv9TK8fORxcdX44Qpq0ObJQx0eQGWV27TvSeiO5cG8WeVbkpzgrS8THHvYUROG3jDppvDf9ldZwHXaeVPFR6Vh4a2RClqn3s/s1600-h/hf_sled_pack_20_resize.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5444559784349572578" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnM0qnQA1kf2Ryz8SP3crORHvO0OUqGM08gTWqj24fhvUJv9TK8fORxcdX44Qpq0ObJQx0eQGWV27TvSeiO5cG8WeVbkpzgrS8THHvYUROG3jDppvDf9ldZwHXaeVPFR6Vh4a2RClqn3s/s320/hf_sled_pack_20_resize.jpg" /></a> Well, if you weren't going to have a bath or a shower for 50+ days, wouldn't you<br />REALLY enjoy a last bath? <span style="color:#000000;">H</span>ere it is:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOnQdw_SME1WUL7aTjPDhlrDQH1FvbXnHuVLZSyy_AhoQCa9AO2HxcEMpH-zjDW5u88lLcwA7GSyBtlBpNgMSuOeeKZ0hjHoswjOAfv5i5TDgCmCUwGof_kOAOKyIUXAf_0Y3jaEzGss/s1600-h/IMG_0671,+bath.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5444557162053505202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOnQdw_SME1WUL7aTjPDhlrDQH1FvbXnHuVLZSyy_AhoQCa9AO2HxcEMpH-zjDW5u88lLcwA7GSyBtlBpNgMSuOeeKZ0hjHoswjOAfv5i5TDgCmCUwGof_kOAOKyIUXAf_0Y3jaEzGss/s320/IMG_0671,+bath.JPG" /></a> Also...now this is a SECRET, hey...We smuggled a few beers and a bottle of wine in, and had a great team 'Last drink' together. This photo was taken by Christina Franco, an Italian woman who is attempting a solo, supported trip to the Pole, and who will travel with us tomorrow. The 'Men in Black'...It feels like a great team!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeet3vXDjwvt5rR06eMNDN8OXCdfenSwf3cWXHJENmnhYfyq2L5ZixKL09SZcKdfcToreAsTbRwicETRO89fWQuTkp1LjoK36vM7fKWDKF-JLS1kr9BCVDQTXBl0BQaZOdREzqqPs4S8s/s1600-h/IMG_0674,+last+photo.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5444557169663317490" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeet3vXDjwvt5rR06eMNDN8OXCdfenSwf3cWXHJENmnhYfyq2L5ZixKL09SZcKdfcToreAsTbRwicETRO89fWQuTkp1LjoK36vM7fKWDKF-JLS1kr9BCVDQTXBl0BQaZOdREzqqPs4S8s/s320/IMG_0674,+last+photo.JPG" /></a><br />And finally....The feeling within:<br /><br />As I said above excitement kicked up a huge amount today. I am really looking forward to getting out there now. I think saying goodbye to the others today and a breakthrough on my gloves and mitten management had a lot to do with it. With potentially having four layers of gloves, having a system and easy access for each layer, when each layer significantly reduces your dexterity, is key....I now have that system!<br /><br />Apprehension is also high, but happily has reduced a bit. Sometimes I think I am in denial, but mostly I turn my back on my fear areas (which are quite a few!) and tell myself..: "You'll be <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">ok</span>, somehow you will deal with it!"<br /><br />I do feel a huge weight of responsibility off my back, especially having Richard and then also my team mates. The pressure of doing things solo are so different, it REALLY stands out for me. Interestingly, Christina and I spent a while talking about this.<br /><br />Otherwise, I am all set to go...<br /><br />By the time you read this I'll be another 9 degrees north and walking to the Pole!<br /><br />I'd like to THANK YOU all for the truly amazing support, which motivates me to bring you closer to the expedition...It's just great, and I will try my best to deliver my style and perspective from the Ice.Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-77425950116474550642010-03-03T11:37:00.003+00:002010-03-03T23:55:59.901+00:00Leaving in an hour.....It's 5h30 am and I ave just woken up to hear the good news that we are flying out in about 1 hour.... So its now REALLY happening. A pretty good nights sleep, but I have to admit to waking up feeling a wee bit apprehensive and thinking how nice that bad was.....!!<br /><br />There will be a full Posting about the last 24 hours going up on this Blog later today. Thereafter there will be updates on our progress every 4-7 days, and if you are on the Alert email list you will get an alert email EVERY time there is a new post. I haven't been emailing Alerts each time with these Resolute posts, but rest assured you will get them for each Post from the Ice.<br /><br />Thanks for your support so far, and hope you enjoy the expedition 'with' me...<br /><br />Bye for now....Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-47342727681808518142010-03-02T02:44:00.004+00:002010-03-02T10:38:47.062+00:00More delays....Bad weather prevents flying todayDue to bad weather up in the area, the pilot called off the flight for the two expeditions that were scheduled to leave for Ward Hunt today. This is bad news for us, as it means we are delayed at least another day. Today's two expeditions are hoping to fly out tomorrow, but this will only be confirmed at 5h30 in the morning.<br /><br />I can feel tension building and I had to go for a long walk on the ice on my own. It's still around -30 deg C outside, so I came back feeling quite fresh! It was good for the mind and spirit. I had a lovely what I thought was a 'second to last' bath last night.... Gee, I will miss just relaxing in a full warm bath. Last one coming up tomorrow night... Hopefully!<br /><br />I highlight of my day today was meeting Pen <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hadow</span> in person, as he is in Resolute as part of a UK Scientific Ice Research program. Pen was the first and one of only two <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">people</span> to have done Ward Hunt Island to the North Pole, solo and unassisted. I refer to his book often in my Blog, and it <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">was</span> just great sharing with him, one-on-one, his experiences and also telling him how his expedition and book played a huge role in getting me here to Resolute. Our discussion focused a lot on open water (lead) swimming, and it became apparent that their are two different philosophies: The one says, "Swim any leads that look '<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">swim-able</span>'", and the other one says, "Walk the leads and you will eventually find a place iced over where you can walk across". Richard's experience follows the later philosophy and he is <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">adamant</span> that this is much faster than <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">swimming</span>. We still remain flexible and prepared to swim, so the difference between the two is just a matter of degrees.<br /><br />More on our departure soon....<br /><br />PS: Sorry about the poor quality of some of the photos in the last Post, I am trying to rectify that. The photos are amazing, but at the moment it takes imagination to see that!Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-12154958657907501222010-03-01T18:12:00.027+00:002010-03-01T22:22:43.060+00:00Some Photos from the Last Few Days<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwNPWlr6dgh9z2qoG9FvuK6_qxzPvMt6e0pfufg168mLhFdJ-jsKqOJuBfIwUD8K4EQuBGHs4dQM2v21AAOx53IZ3kG78aZ6ib2HNmWAYVG8IigIrRUcgbxi7tmVNoYuY99Zv0iHsN4s/s1600-h/hf_beer_yk.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443749836992836946" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwNPWlr6dgh9z2qoG9FvuK6_qxzPvMt6e0pfufg168mLhFdJ-jsKqOJuBfIwUD8K4EQuBGHs4dQM2v21AAOx53IZ3kG78aZ6ib2HNmWAYVG8IigIrRUcgbxi7tmVNoYuY99Zv0iHsN4s/s320/hf_beer_yk.jpg" /></a> <div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div>Friday (26 Feb): Back in Yellowknife, with my new skinhead and my last beer until at least 25<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">th</span> April (Resolute is a dry town..<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">ie</span> alcohol is illegal.) Oh, the haircut, low maintenance, even though it's a bit colder. Head cold has never been a problem, as I have a good selection of head gear layers.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcP9eN9gr49f94RsowYCQ-LCebjVbn-l-X-3RfdViWcrxuodLabwLh6l_5OIon5i1XErCj-YKXww7wgNrrbxLJr21HRksB6aejJcQ6PDkNGbO6R9CtBha7f_rMk1kZi327SrI8qIxhlDw/s1600-h/sleds_aero.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 319px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443755088470066114" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcP9eN9gr49f94RsowYCQ-LCebjVbn-l-X-3RfdViWcrxuodLabwLh6l_5OIon5i1XErCj-YKXww7wgNrrbxLJr21HRksB6aejJcQ6PDkNGbO6R9CtBha7f_rMk1kZi327SrI8qIxhlDw/s320/sleds_aero.jpg" /></a> Friday (26 Feb): This is our sleds being loaded onto the Summit Air Twin Otter, bound with us to Resolute. It was a pleasant, albeit noisy, 5 hour flight to Resolute. Here is sunset above the clouds:</div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzcMENKh0M5Fhs_RIys29DcAf0H5NUzP9187bmHc8iaqK2NTPnpzBvfTfAALVZPWq87DQfs7KjF3LAI8VXdYxl2WPN-vx4AbJ0hgWSK4GPTFkawumseUSdnUg4AkJ5vmZlkK1Av2eRJI/s1600-h/flight_sunset.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443759346377558882" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzcMENKh0M5Fhs_RIys29DcAf0H5NUzP9187bmHc8iaqK2NTPnpzBvfTfAALVZPWq87DQfs7KjF3LAI8VXdYxl2WPN-vx4AbJ0hgWSK4GPTFkawumseUSdnUg4AkJ5vmZlkK1Av2eRJI/s320/flight_sunset.jpg" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Friday (26 Feb): It was a bit of an emotional shock arriving at 10pm at the very desolate Resolute airport at -32 deg C, and knowing I was now at 74 deg North, the furthest North I have ever been. Inside me I felt a funny twinge as I knew there was just one more 9 degree step left, and the start line was only a few days away. After being told to reduce my expectations of Resolute, I was pleasantly surprised by our accommodation, food and general infrastructure. Here is a photo of the only church in Resolute:</div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuqYYsvSNgyjAYPruXiRu9Mfw_5rMGwu1AGW13ppewC_f1dH-gp5jI7ldHpfIqp48sQcQ01dLLMMq6a6w1TUr0cJweps16BYec4elM93MYk50EYAEUMKhLVgE8v6OuVflwf0OszP8JxA/s1600-h/resolute__church_.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 319px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443759790010114370" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuqYYsvSNgyjAYPruXiRu9Mfw_5rMGwu1AGW13ppewC_f1dH-gp5jI7ldHpfIqp48sQcQ01dLLMMq6a6w1TUr0cJweps16BYec4elM93MYk50EYAEUMKhLVgE8v6OuVflwf0OszP8JxA/s320/resolute__church_.jpg" /></a><br /><div></div><div><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">Azzi's</span> place, where we are staying is a hive of activity with seven of the eight expeditions staying here. This huge room below is set aside for us all to prepare in indoor comfort, and looks like an arctic gear exhibition, complete with stuffed polar bear!</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpewaSeYH0eYrl7uCvz3SEJwgVI-88Q3zrjiTfBBPPjAnrUFUkwxAi4NeT71N2TxGaDoBkFVVJjwHrCHhHjJOXER8n8bP8T57jFAtnSwMjSfV_Q64k4HSCcz9psRX8DOK6IiTNxiKXomo/s1600-h/np_exhib.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 319px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443760165446290722" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpewaSeYH0eYrl7uCvz3SEJwgVI-88Q3zrjiTfBBPPjAnrUFUkwxAi4NeT71N2TxGaDoBkFVVJjwHrCHhHjJOXER8n8bP8T57jFAtnSwMjSfV_Q64k4HSCcz9psRX8DOK6IiTNxiKXomo/s320/np_exhib.jpg" /></a><br /><div>Saturday (27 Feb): The 2<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span> night I went for a long walk around sunset and was treated to the views I described in my last post. Here is sunset across the frozen ocean:</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgpx56RAoGB-U0JiZVJ1ExSb3x4LaQ_aC0_75b0DMKX6uKusPXCcjZ-IeN8LoyCyWGHqoKWdB0ZvqIP_qr_dT_3_Uq1jaX-ZOh30uLJk8OVeL3x78TYcw0pWxUc8T8PUShIHEF1J4uhg/s1600-h/arctic_sunset.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 319px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443761219251198578" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgpx56RAoGB-U0JiZVJ1ExSb3x4LaQ_aC0_75b0DMKX6uKusPXCcjZ-IeN8LoyCyWGHqoKWdB0ZvqIP_qr_dT_3_Uq1jaX-ZOh30uLJk8OVeL3x78TYcw0pWxUc8T8PUShIHEF1J4uhg/s320/arctic_sunset.jpg" /></a><br /><div></div><div>Here is that full moon, with some ice rubble:</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuzpK-LUHWYFKeRO8L24DIUrPpON8KLvCy_RgH4ZAeMeyp_67S1WfMZ39P-4wH-3n741diZe5l_2c300Yt98p9cWud2ivD8pRJKMAaL9o6FtphTH_oxBsjhZ9ufEP-CPwk-17mFBNJdY/s1600-h/resolute_moon.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443760169666135202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuzpK-LUHWYFKeRO8L24DIUrPpON8KLvCy_RgH4ZAeMeyp_67S1WfMZ39P-4wH-3n741diZe5l_2c300Yt98p9cWud2ivD8pRJKMAaL9o6FtphTH_oxBsjhZ9ufEP-CPwk-17mFBNJdY/s320/resolute_moon.jpg" /></a> I can feel my 'sand desert' <span style="color:#000000;">connection</span> with the ocean 'ice desert', and it excites me. These amazing shapes ... original blocks of ice presented by the sea, covered in snow, and then each uniquely sculptured by the ocean wind.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVAxVA8SFyiFzK4JHV7FrhDk_TggDkoWdnPy7co5P-SqIS_exAPFp8Y0m2ipSPgAxvgN4VVaPbvTDT-GClRgHXcGp-gG-mfXAIdFJO2vAzq9A0gVPdAztYcgrqo5IyTdnyq9DWRz1QwXU/s1600-h/sea_ice_rubble.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443760172273124098" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVAxVA8SFyiFzK4JHV7FrhDk_TggDkoWdnPy7co5P-SqIS_exAPFp8Y0m2ipSPgAxvgN4VVaPbvTDT-GClRgHXcGp-gG-mfXAIdFJO2vAzq9A0gVPdAztYcgrqo5IyTdnyq9DWRz1QwXU/s320/sea_ice_rubble.jpg" /></a>Sunday (28 Feb): After we finished packing the sleds with their final expedition loads (food,gear, etc) we went out for a five hour march on the ocean ice, even finding some significant pressure ridges. Being my first encounter with sea ice conditions, and with the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">temperature</span> at -37C and wind chill at one point it turned out to be a great session. I just love the beauty and variety of the ocean <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">terrain</span>, it really made me connect with the adventure ahead. I can see that with the ocean ice and the pressure ridges the days marches won't be boring, but rather a game of route picking decisions, and fairly immediate high stakes/rewards penalty.</div><div></div><br /><div>On the walk I saw my first water condensation cloud in the distance. It looks <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">like</span> smoke from a fire on the ice. This being a 'steam plume' that literally forms a low level cloud that marks an open water lead below, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">ie</span> a large <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">break</span> in the ocean ice that exposes sufficient area of water which provides the heat/moisture to create the cloud. The air near the water is very 'warm' at -1.8C, vs the air around the ice which is -35C or whatever. The warm moist air rises off the water and then gets cooled by the 'ice air' and the moisture condenses forming the cloud. So clouds over the ice ahead are bad news!</div><div></div><br /><div>We also came across two polar bears...arhhh...well note quite, but their fresh paw prints. Two medium sized, not fully grown ones, but clear in the snow. Sorry no photos, because at that moment my camera was too cold from just having shot a lot of photos and so the battery couldn't function!</div><br /><div>On the return journey we came across this amazing Inuit woman and her daughter on their snowmobile. She was just returning from a successful seal hunt at one of the offshore open water leads. She is the only <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">female</span> polar bear guide in the Arctic region. Here's a photo of her dragging the seal catch behind.</div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLe4LNTJKrAA2hfK0kuTFphCboep_qYr5qqkfH6MwEDCq11W2IQ7orYK6Yn1HeDuJJp3dDFz5NxPBZaN4X7WOyHCi198KDj6IbIpE1a7GNYRR0reVRf3xoJy5zw-Q7ID1K7llik0wdf0/s1600-h/polar_bear_guide.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 319px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443792511500113458" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLe4LNTJKrAA2hfK0kuTFphCboep_qYr5qqkfH6MwEDCq11W2IQ7orYK6Yn1HeDuJJp3dDFz5NxPBZaN4X7WOyHCi198KDj6IbIpE1a7GNYRR0reVRf3xoJy5zw-Q7ID1K7llik0wdf0/s320/polar_bear_guide.jpg" /></a> <div></div><div>Here are photos of the two solo, unsupported, expeditioners that have been with us preparing.</div><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FIMRVbWqdvqcBV5tRGYDLdu-iyQSLNMHBpKG68KrYhZIqerDT500c2bEcqusdVPPgyMacyYzpEPvsM3a7VIo4KoQzQhUrwZ8tRkpAgnA2MAXjO8-b1i8dVEoMMQkHm07HQWH-sogQ2s/s1600-h/tom.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 319px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443792517772490354" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8FIMRVbWqdvqcBV5tRGYDLdu-iyQSLNMHBpKG68KrYhZIqerDT500c2bEcqusdVPPgyMacyYzpEPvsM3a7VIo4KoQzQhUrwZ8tRkpAgnA2MAXjO8-b1i8dVEoMMQkHm07HQWH-sogQ2s/s320/tom.jpg" /></a> <div>Tom Smitheringale of Australia who left Sunday (Feb 28)</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixUtckeENxg3usn0HKxk9e81XgyZsz2ixDgL_ndsGcLh3WBNXI0_3WreGI1X3OH7itSgY1aaVEL9mDihdoKABCmvzv1ozPk6JthS-YM4UsTUwJ0hypP1zLxyeGqUqJWWAvBz8UBb7fHEk/s1600-h/michele.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5443792521052850450" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixUtckeENxg3usn0HKxk9e81XgyZsz2ixDgL_ndsGcLh3WBNXI0_3WreGI1X3OH7itSgY1aaVEL9mDihdoKABCmvzv1ozPk6JthS-YM4UsTUwJ0hypP1zLxyeGqUqJWWAvBz8UBb7fHEk/s320/michele.jpg" /></a><br /><div>Michele <span style="color:#000000;">Pontrandolfo</span> of <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Italy</span> who leaves Monday (Mar 1)<br /></div><div>Only two people have ever managed this so these guys are to be admired for taking on this huge challenge.</div><div></div><br /><div>Finally, I have just heard that due to the bad ice conditions the pilot has suggested he take us to our original start point of Ward Hunt Island. So, back to the original plan. I am happier with that, as the point has a lot of history and significance. The two expeditions that went today were to be dropped off there.</div><br /><div></div><div>All <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14" class="blsp-spelling-error">being</span> good, we leave Tuesday (Mar 2) at 0630...<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_15" class="blsp-spelling-error">hmmm</span>! And I'll do a last post before then.</div><div> </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-2093567400928741792010-02-28T13:50:00.004+00:002010-03-01T18:07:52.910+00:00Resolute all good....set for Tuesday StartJust a short one for now.....<br /><br />We all arrived safely in Resolute, it's a lot colder here, but 'sadly' set to warm up again! Preparations going well, and today we will go out for a training march, my first experience of the sea ice.<br /><br />We are now scheduled to fly out 2 March, but things could still change. More later and some photos...<br /><br />There are lots of <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">different</span> views on the condition of <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">the</span> Ice, but today we hope to get the '<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">real' story</span> from the pilot who flew my friends Dan and Amelia out, two days ago. Tom the solo Australian leaves today, so things are happening!<br /><br />It was a beautiful clear day here yesterday, and as the sun set we were presented with the problem causing, full moon, bigger and brighter than probably I have ever seen it before....! <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmm</span></span>, this is the body causing all the Ice fractures, and the earth quake and tsunami's too...??? Anyway it was a beautiful sight rising over a ice cliff behind our <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">accommodation</span>.<br /><br />Yesterday I had my first feel of the 'Ice Desert' and the Arctic Ocean. From Resolute I could look out across a never ending sea ice plain to the distant flat horizon. Somehow with the sun setting and the wildly shaped shadows it made I felt this huge excitement within, and then soon after the moon appeared adding to this specialness.<br /><br />More tonight.....Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-33025098329155060662010-02-26T19:09:00.003+00:002010-02-26T21:01:27.385+00:00Fear running high!In the last few hours there have been lots of emails, phone call activity around the condition of the Ice at the start point. One never knows where the truth lies, but infra red photos are being sent around with notes attached saying that the ocean is really badly cracked, and there is even open water right off the land at our start point.... This is when it's good to tap into Richard's experience, and he remains confident that this is pretty typical <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">pre</span></span>-expedition hype and apprehension. He does qualify that by saying things are probably a 'bit worse' because of the super tides.... We have just spent the last two hours going through the possible ice scenarios and how we will manage them....<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmmmm</span>.... It will be VERY interesting, and I can feel my stomach turning a bit more! <div><br /></div><div>My friends Dan and Amelia took the lonely flight to the start this morning, and within hours they will be at the cold face and know the real truths about the ice conditions. We were supposed to be with them in Resolute, but with the this was not to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">be. I</span> received an email from them last night, and it had a huge impact as I immediately related to their <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">pre</span></span>-expedition nerves, given the relatively low level of experience. They are strong and an amazing team, so I hold thumbs.... <div><br /></div><div>We are on track for a 2.3o pm charter flight departure from Yellowknife, and are about to head off for our last 'nice' team lunch. Apparently Resolute is not a centre of culinary fame! I can almost be certain that none of us will be ordering any food that resembles, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">pemmican</span>, noodles, cheese or nut butter, and we will keep away from nuts for desert! </div><div><br /></div><div>More from Resolute...</div></div>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-9991011218336601872010-02-26T15:00:00.006+00:002010-02-26T18:45:21.660+00:00The Blizzard up North Continues....Well yesterday was another day spent in Yellowknife, as the blizzard up North at Resolute prevented us flying again.... Tension builds, but in some way I was happy to have another unplanned rest day, and my toe is now significantly better for it. <div><br /></div><div>At this stage we are still hopeful that this delay in getting to Resolute will not delay our Expedition start date, however the reality is that we probably will be delayed. With 6 expeditions leaving, we are scheduled last to be flown up to the start point, so we will just have to wait and see. I have used this time to rest, read and get my mind 'locked onto' the task ahead.... The only time I get a bit of a wobbly is immediately on waking in the morning to a vivid, peephole picture through my sleeping bag hood of my -55 Deg C 'room', that ice encrusted tent and us packed like sardines, with 'another' 10 hour march day ahead. It only takes a few seconds and this uninviting image is replaced with a picture of me out there a very special world of sea ice, and in a mental solitude that for me is the ultimate meditation. I can't wait to 'get simple' again, and remove the last layers of everyday life clutter, exposing the very core of me.</div><div><br /></div><div>At 9 am on Friday morning it is looking very hopeful that we will now fly to Resolute at 4pm this afternoon. It's still not 100% certain though, and I'll keep you updated!</div><div><br /></div><div>Last night, while having my REAL last beer in my 'favourite' Yellowknife club, I had an interesting interaction with a middle aged, local Dene woman. (The Dene people being the local <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Aborigines</span></span>, the land based version of the Inuits, who live off the sea.) She was interested in why I was in Yellowknife and clearly saw me as a misfit in the local community. On hearing I was walking to the North Pole, she almost dismissed this as 'just a tourist thing', saying I should be doing it the 'Inuit Way'. On questioning her what that was, she was <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">disparaging</span> implying that with modern equipment and technology we were 'cheating', saying the Inuits don't need half the gear, and it's all handmade, not bought from fancy outdoor stores. I didn't rise to the bait that could have gone down a more fundamental and emotive discussion, and the discussion turned to how I was going to struggle, as I am almost the physiologically opposite of an Inuit! <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmmm</span></span>, lovely stuff to hear a few days before leaving for the North Pole, where the physiologically closer one is to an Inuit the easier it will be! Basically she was saying that I was tall, had long fingers, and toes, lower fat content, and overall a huge surface area to keep warm. The critical part being the short toes and fingers, which is where the larger heat losses take place! Add to that having spent almost 50 years in warm, humid climates, the reality of what she was saying really hit home.........Oh well, it wasn't like it was the first time I had thought about my 'physiological fit', and actually that is part of the challenge I have signed up for! I do feel (and talk myself into believing) that my <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">physical</span> and sporting background has provided me with a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">physiological</span> advantage for pulling a sled over tough terrain. The important thing for me, is that I BELIEVE I have a strength that outweighs my weaknesses....The mind games hey!</div><div><br /></div><div>Hopefully next Posting for Resolute..... I am now REALLY excited!</div>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-69401080183725811072010-02-24T00:55:00.015+00:002010-02-25T14:09:45.635+00:00Our first Arctic Blizzard experience..............Aahh sort of...!After a mammoth effort to get everything completed and packed for our Yellowknife departure, Mother Nature gave us maybe her first 'warning' of what's in store for us...A blizzard in Resolute, 55 knot winds and zero visibility, has forced a 24hr delay in our departure to Resolute. Forecasts expect it to last 24-36 hr, so we are holding thumbs for a tomorrow morning (Thursday) departure. The good news is that it has brought colder weather... We had -30 on our dry suit swimming day!<br /><br /><strong><em>Slimming down to the essentials...<br /></em></strong><br />I am now slimmed down to just my Expedition gear. Today I packed and mailed off to London my 'excess' baggage...surface mail, as there is no point rushing it while I am 'otherwise occupied' till early May. So basically I only have my Polar suit and Arctic Boots as my 'casual' everyday gear. A wallet is wasted weight and space, so two necessary bank cards and my passport were sealed in a ziplock bag, and stored deep in my backpack inner pocket, only to be used after 90 deg N! Razor, hair and scrubbing brushes joined the items destined for London. Even my book has joined the Not for expedition' gear. (After discussions with others I can see I will be so dead tired each day, there won't be more than reading seconds!)<br /><br /><em><strong>From the 'Catwalks' of the Arctic Ocean....</strong></em><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOiarnC8-6PDMuYvpO5LmRAwB44Ij0a9EL96tiq6UDJBXlXJg_USumM6rvG9Sx06sTI0H8iqKrgAWKhvojDydsOEl3uzbgFjKzXq5TLwbDSwXW1Z5E1zidC5CSboycw2zvPuom8ZL7kAs/s1600-h/IMG_0513.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441985671329056034" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOiarnC8-6PDMuYvpO5LmRAwB44Ij0a9EL96tiq6UDJBXlXJg_USumM6rvG9Sx06sTI0H8iqKrgAWKhvojDydsOEl3uzbgFjKzXq5TLwbDSwXW1Z5E1zidC5CSboycw2zvPuom8ZL7kAs/s320/IMG_0513.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The latest in men's fashion wear, straight from the fashion houses of the Arctic! Long trousers with rear 'flap downs' for that cool, 'You decide how far you want it open at the rear', look! Haha...!<br />Many have asked: So how do you manage to the toilet at -50 Deg C? Well this is the part answer, convenient, specially designed gear! This is my Polar suit pants, which go under the soft wind shell. The other part of the toilet process is that you have to manage your bodily functions such that when you 'Have to go... you go!...No sitting around reading the paper etc...you will get serious frostbite! The good news is that the repetitive food, and routine mean that things become very predictable!<br /><br /><em><strong>Pre-adventure wobblies....the mind games!</strong></em><br /><br />Probably, in anticipation of our departure this morning, I had a fairly restless night, and woke up a bit lonely...that sort of 'alone-ness' that I have experienced before, and which is the necessary reality of mentally preparing myself for the hard 'solo' personal struggle ahead. While there is lots of emotional support from many (Thanks!) this 'alone-ness' is about being physically alone, socially isolated from normal 'luxuries', and me being 100% responsible for getting my mind and body to the Pole without help and harm. I found my mind drifting back to some of my previous solo adventures, dwelling on both the very high and the very low spots, and how I rose to the adversities.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49xpaSxOGILojP7prJNxR_2DWGwyaFc9w-vmD2wJn80Vo7jAEFyDK8IfNpoyZVxfZY4GVH50PTspvJ3Lt9CvsyPU_D8W93GEax5pvMPbpnwZdOe2IcR7r-FXuKPdJEsotOAMrzNR7Kpg/s1600-h/Patcycle.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 255px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 161px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441821908747447794" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49xpaSxOGILojP7prJNxR_2DWGwyaFc9w-vmD2wJn80Vo7jAEFyDK8IfNpoyZVxfZY4GVH50PTspvJ3Lt9CvsyPU_D8W93GEax5pvMPbpnwZdOe2IcR7r-FXuKPdJEsotOAMrzNR7Kpg/s320/Patcycle.jpg" /></a><br />I even skimmed through my 'highlight' photos and gradually the 'fear' transformed into huge excitement and confidence. While the cold of the Arctic and the pulling of a sled are new challenges, I quickly locked on to the 'strength of mind' I have built up across many first time, and difficult situations with the diversity of solo cycling, sailing and sea kayaking adventures I have done.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxG8XcSE0fRRSJeSCT0vB-lVHD_qQewuQzdla_CGit-bTHZ4TM8ilM6BPKpBwh0E9CvY8phEW5laz49rWMds4UPO-hF2061CloUFalx-WxCNb0C7d8gxOOEWA96ZPKzAyyK_AplQaZrks/s1600-h/Mixedupmast+005adj.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 255px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 191px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441821911975451026" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxG8XcSE0fRRSJeSCT0vB-lVHD_qQewuQzdla_CGit-bTHZ4TM8ilM6BPKpBwh0E9CvY8phEW5laz49rWMds4UPO-hF2061CloUFalx-WxCNb0C7d8gxOOEWA96ZPKzAyyK_AplQaZrks/s320/Mixedupmast+005adj.jpg" /></a><br />When I looked at it like that, This Arctic challenge was now not totally new and scary, but rather a more extreme version of a well know path for me. That simple twist, removes the fear, and taps into my spirit of adventure and the desire to extend my already honed skills and competencies...... This may however be the most demanding adventure yet! I thanked my 'lucky stars' for having the privilege to be able to immerse myself in this experience.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzM7HypvVFYh3QUo2V0q2fkul7hPKWwoW5SWhotSTcqn8StkQquXiwXJ4aDomkdO52HSKJ1cUWSXQ15dPo1cnw6A_Zxywv_sDZaLiPMfhCaXK41s65UMIiTQfBLetB2kVSWH8UqysDdQ/s1600-h/kayaking.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 213px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441821916617128370" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzM7HypvVFYh3QUo2V0q2fkul7hPKWwoW5SWhotSTcqn8StkQquXiwXJ4aDomkdO52HSKJ1cUWSXQ15dPo1cnw6A_Zxywv_sDZaLiPMfhCaXK41s65UMIiTQfBLetB2kVSWH8UqysDdQ/s320/kayaking.jpg" /></a><br />In this world where I am currently 'playing', I am intrigued by the discussions that go around whether Everest is more difficult than the North Pole, and what is bigger better, harder, etc...? As a solo sailor, and solo adventurer, I am alone in these circles. Few know the world of the ocean sailor, and even less the perspective of the solo adventurer, these are expedition team people, and mainly mountaineers / serious polar adventurers. Almost without exception all the people I have met since embarking on this polar diversion, openly state they would "never go solo", nor see the attraction of solo pursuits. I do understand and respect their perspective, but inside me I know that somehow the solo adventurer is the purist of them all! (Pen Hadow's solo, unsupported trip along the same route we are taking, is truly an awesome achievement which I relate to quiet closely, and respect hugely.) After listening to these discussions about which is the hardest, biggest etc, I just can't wait to put this North Pole team expedition experience into context of my my solo world, and be able to have <strong><em>my</em></strong> measurement scale....In some ways I feel sad that I have been sucked up into this senseless ranking and in my view ego driven debate. I hope that knowing my own truth will give me the freedom to remain peacefully quiet in the presence of these discussions. That's all it's about, the relatives for those that There is no doubt that this North Pole expedition is going to be <strong><em>very</em></strong> challenging, and I am looking forward to doing my own 'harder, bigger, better' and assessing the impact on this ranking of the team support element and me 'leaning on' Richard's experienced leadership. </p><p>Over a few 'last night' beers (Resolute is a dry town!), David and I shared our 'top worry' areas, and interest how different and personal ours were. Mine were around tent comfort, and feet, cold management. The conversation moved to emergency rescue decision making: How we will react in a situation where their is potential loss of toes, fingers to frostbite? When do you bail rather than sacrifice fingers or toes? Knowing one's limits, one's personality and where we each draw the line, is key in all this....Powerful stuff!<br /><br /><strong><em>The Arctic Giraffe gets a Name....</em></strong><br /><br />As 'we' prepare to walk to the North Pole together and my team mates have accepted my 'strange African buddy', he has been officially named "<strong><em>Indinda</em></strong>" after <em>my</em> Wanderer persona, and <em>his</em> extensive travels. Indinda means "Wanderer" in Zulu, one of the major African cultures within South Africa.<br /><br /><strong><em>Lastly....not the ideal way to start this trip...<br /></em></strong><br />Somehow I seem determined to give my middle toe on my right foot the ultimate test! It was the one worst affected by the -40 C frost nip in December, but 5 days ago I slipped down a staircase, and with only socks on, I kicked the balustrade hard as I tried to stop the fall. It was bloody, seriously painful and cost me another toenail...yes same toe. It's been very swollen and sore after a four hour walk, and I am in denial about the possibility it's cracked. I lie here with my right foot raised, hoping to speed up the recovery...hmmm, maybe this enforced rest day is Mother Nature taking a real maternal role over her 52 year old 'little boy'. I am 90% sure it will be ok, but I'd prefer not to have the 10% niggle. It's never simple or easy hey!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmbAKOQU_4X1BLrHfzJmUSFeE_C3rTVq24M1N-yE7sX1V5DPZtm-vW8oZYMwhX31VXMzbwfr5SCgHUygwv5AHlaDMzqN9z-0GpSWx_YHt3NgI9FZe46IziHsTfNOwshU3IZ21HmuZy_6c/s1600-h/IMG_0510.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441975115250977202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmbAKOQU_4X1BLrHfzJmUSFeE_C3rTVq24M1N-yE7sX1V5DPZtm-vW8oZYMwhX31VXMzbwfr5SCgHUygwv5AHlaDMzqN9z-0GpSWx_YHt3NgI9FZe46IziHsTfNOwshU3IZ21HmuZy_6c/s320/IMG_0510.jpg" /></a><br />Next one from Resolute... I am sooo.... excited now!!</p>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4792971346350299201.post-21097153815753082762010-02-21T14:52:00.008+00:002010-02-22T02:50:00.669+00:00The Pace ramps up....!The last two days have been quite hectic and I can feel the momentum is <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">building</span> now...<br /><br />There has been a slight, last minute change of Expedition plan:<br /><br />The pilot flying us into our start point, has asked us to move the start point to a very small island about 8 miles south west of our original Ward Hunt Island starting point. This is because of the difficulties of landing at Ward Hunt with the 1 March, poor sun angle. We have agreed to this, but the extra distance now adds another day's marching to our expedition. Life is full of surprises and changes!<br /><br />Friday was another meals day. This time putting together 55 Dinner packs and then making 220 gourmet, stack sandwiches. The specially selected ingredients came from Ottawa and we then had to measure out and package daily rations. Here is a one night, four person, dinner pack:<br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Z3TsF5Dc4H4IgCeOb3P4tDZR0UR5NQkjpdKbwviJ7fhuQXC1B5gQQ9wFToaY4XDWRxGor8oNrMsJKqw7B1rKAXhNf5La68GkOcUULR5QkPt3zhCfT59yrkwyGNl-OcxT_-fnTY6edOs/s1600-h/dinner+pack.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440712202388523186" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Z3TsF5Dc4H4IgCeOb3P4tDZR0UR5NQkjpdKbwviJ7fhuQXC1B5gQQ9wFToaY4XDWRxGor8oNrMsJKqw7B1rKAXhNf5La68GkOcUULR5QkPt3zhCfT59yrkwyGNl-OcxT_-fnTY6edOs/s320/dinner+pack.jpg" /></a><br /><br />It consists of pemmican, packets of chicken / beef noodles, a mix of grated mature cheddar and either <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">pine nuts</span> or creamed coconut cubes, a sachet of powdered milk, a lump of crystallised maple sugar, another sachet of Muscle Milk (Body builder supplement), and a cube of butter. These are the ingredients to make firstly our '<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">pre</span>-</span>dinner', milk cocktail drink, then the main course, a cheesy, pemmican dominated, noodles dish. This is then followed by desert which is a Muscle Milk drink.<br /><br />The treat for breakfast is the stacked sandwich shown below:<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrELewD7zZ-oBAeIJ-tACs5kJd7PNDTZkUeWwehzAzdS5aoDNo9PJgtGF_5U3wzV4TQO5otDI6bZrOl1x_gAxELnYiCrywLkts_rNApdb5U_YPK2HUtxcQhp6viwXAMFSjxskOu4ADtW8/s1600-h/brekkie+sandwich.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440712212750690002" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrELewD7zZ-oBAeIJ-tACs5kJd7PNDTZkUeWwehzAzdS5aoDNo9PJgtGF_5U3wzV4TQO5otDI6bZrOl1x_gAxELnYiCrywLkts_rNApdb5U_YPK2HUtxcQhp6viwXAMFSjxskOu4ADtW8/s320/brekkie+sandwich.jpg" /></a><br /><br />As I said, we spent <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Friday</span> hand making each individual sandwich a<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span></span> then carefully <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">wrapping</span> it in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">cling wrap</span>, before storing them outside in the natural cold room, to freeze. The ingredients are <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">sucre</span>,</span> a Russian toast bread, which then has a thick peanut butter layer, 'drizzled' with macademia nut butter paste, and then topped with a thick slice of pure butter. This makes each sandwich about 700 k calories. It was quite a process making 220 of these <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">sandwiches</span>! The rest of breakfast is more pemmican and 'normal' coffee and powdered milk.</p><p>Yesterday, we did our longest sled pull to date....just over six hours with full sleds, packs and towing the ski's to exactly simulate the first days of the expedition. We took on some hilly terrain to make it even more real, and I felt pretty good at the end of it all. </p><p>Given all my solo pursuits and need to feel free, I do find staying in line staring at the sled <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">in front</span> of me quite difficult, so often break free of the group and break my own trail. Understanding that this might not be considered full team behaviour, yesterday I brought this up with the team, and this resulted in a very positive win-win discussion. I am very aware of the possibility of any niggling issues now, becoming huge issues on the expedition, so have been trying to facilitate very open discussions around potential issues. I am really happy to say this <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">openness</span> has been welcomed and even encouraged, resulting in each of us having a much better understanding and respect of the others. Yesterday's discussions were particularly productive in this area, and at this stage I couldn't feel happier about being part of a team as the team I am setting out with. I can feel the unit becoming stronger and more co-ordinated each day, and at the same time I can see my need for 'a bit' of freedom and individualism being accepted and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">accommodated</span> in the daily routines.<br /></p><br /><p>Tomorrow we are planning to have dry suit swimming training, but other than this the time before our flight on Wednesday to Resolute will be all about packing the food, gear and organising the logistics of getting it all to the airport on time. </p><p></p><p>Here is a picture of people ice fishing on Great Slave Lake. We came across them yesterday while on our six hour training march. A great catch of fish as they hauled out the nets from under the 60 cm thick ice.</p><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlQT38N84RMZ-L9pfDD0WTlh1CR1oHhVthFxXgSwPO4ED_rQwGURqdJ9jt96YSDcrM_YAozUvIzmezd-ydbzmFuRGVmlUa5thlKGb17oE7AIZa7AJz2btOb1aF4ZDL-BELz9cJTi_bxs/s1600-h/ice+fishing.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440729145903659410" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlQT38N84RMZ-L9pfDD0WTlh1CR1oHhVthFxXgSwPO4ED_rQwGURqdJ9jt96YSDcrM_YAozUvIzmezd-ydbzmFuRGVmlUa5thlKGb17oE7AIZa7AJz2btOb1aF4ZDL-BELz9cJTi_bxs/s320/ice+fishing.jpg" /></a><br /><p></p><br /><p>Probably my next Posting will be from Resolute! Much further North and much colder! </p><p>Talk to you from there! </p>Howard Fairbankhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17287350290132763213noreply@blogger.com1